chile

Loco is back in town. Back from stomping up some of the highest peaks in the Andes – and therefore the highest peaks in the Americas. And he has some great stories – of hauling high-tech measuring instruments and marble plaques to distant summits. A Mexican sherpa, who was never really supposed to summit anything, bagging every peak. But this day we are mostly concerned with a 15 foot boulder problem in a nearby park. Probably somebody has climbed this thing. But everyone I talk to says – I bouldered up to the exit moves and then it got so thin it was just too scary. Only in Spanish.

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Stepping into the Refugio Lo Valdes, I felt like I was transported from Chile back to Switzerland. The refugio is a massive stone hut with clean, warm rooms, hearty, tasty fare, streams running through the back garden, excellent selection of wines and fabulous vistas in 360 degrees. The refugio is owned and leased out by the Club Andino Aleman (German Climbing Club). They are also providing us with funds to equip some cliffs in the area. They give out free photocopied maps of hikes and climbs in the area to guests and encourage (or at least don't discourage) late night guitar sessions.

These pictures were all taken from the stone terrace where several Chileans of German descent were enjoying the view with copious portions of vino blanco.

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So, my French buddy, Jean, asks a German climbing federation in Chile for a bunch of money and...they give us some. How cool is that? Not all we asked for. But U.S $400. To bolt multi-pitch climbs on a cliff near their refuge. Pretty good since we would have spent our own hard earned pesos on the same project.

So, it's a weekend of hanging off ropes or cliffhangers and drilling and, hopefully, sending new lines. Up to 5 pitches.

Pictures to come soon, I hope...

A four day weekend is always good news. Reminds me that religion does serve a purpose - and living in a Catholic country does have its advantages.

But family and friends want to surf. The wee one has a new wetsuit and is chanting BEACHBEACHBEACH. A climbing trip is simply not in the cards. Best I can manage is a 180 degree change in direction. Instead of driving 5 hours south to a cool, chilled-out surf scene why not drive 5 hours north to a cool, chilled-out surf scene...with boulders?

I like getting into the water sometimes, too.

The coast just south of La Serena, Chile is literally rotten with boulders. The best known destination, Coquimbo, is unfortunately also rotten with trash. But just down the road where all the surfing happens there's some fine, fine bouldering with some soft, sand landings.

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