Return to the Rostrum

One week in Yosemite, not nearly enough. My last visit was two years ago. At that time I felt pretty green to the Valley. Training for this past month, I wanted to feel strong re-entering one of my favorite climbing destinations. A day cragging at the Church Bowls was entertaining, but a bit crowded for me. It always takes me a day or so to get used to the subtleties of the Yosemite friction.

A couple of days later we head to the Rostrum. Both our second time on the route. I only have one pitch in mind, #4, the crux finger crack. I seconded it last time and it felt fairly desperate. Would I ever be able to lead it clean? As we descend deep into the bottom of the Rostrum, butterflies begin to gather in my stomach. After all the rappels we are finally at the bottom. Unfortunately there are a bunch of other parties on the route. It sometimes feels a bit committing going down there knowing that the only way out is either wading a river or climbing out. I climb the first pitch. The chimney does not feel nearly as sketchy as it did two years ago. My partner takes the next pitch, a traversing start to a finger crack to a wierd and scary flake thing. He takes the next hand jam pitch that takes us to the ledge below the finger crack crux pitch. While at the ledge I watch a party ahead of us do it with one fall. I try my best to memorize the gear placements. Normally I would be a little frightened before a lead like this but for some reason all I can do is smile in anticipation. I can't wait. Leaving the ledge I meticulously place a couple stoppers. I step up high, right before the fingers start. Slotting a .3 camalot, I decide to enter into the crux. The finger locks feel really solid, I can't believe it. Casually I place a .4 camalot and run my fingers up the crack eventually to the hand jam in the middle of the pitch. With the crux over and my arms a little pumped I still have some hard climbing ahead of me. Ten feet left after I place a bomber .5. I decide to punch it. About to slip off I thrutch for the end jug. Hitting it in control, I dont want to fall now, I'm looking at a big whip. Carefully clipping the anchors everyone on the route is hooting and hollering. I did it. We decide to bail on the route after 4 great pitches since we can't stay sane waiting for a slow party ahead of us. We go to the Sacher Cracker instead. A great day even though we did not finish the route.