Is beta shouting out of control at the crags?

I'm gonna chime in with an additional GAAAWD YES vote. Last time I was out at a popular sport crag the beta spray was reaching rock concert decibel levels. Annoying as hell to say the least.

It really is a bit much - you really gotta love it when there are people trying to out-beta each other to the climber with conflicting advice. What I love best (NOT!) is all the newbies who have climbed once or twice shouting out beta like they put up the route. If you don't know the climber or the climb, it's best to wait until the climber asks for the advice. I'm not trying to be harsh, it's good to get involved and be excited about climbing. My personal feeling is that when I'm climbing, I only want my belayer or someone very experienced that I know and trust telling me what move is next, and then I only want to hear it if I'm stuck!!

Someday I hope to be the person my dogs think I am!

Well will have to go with SB on this one; when you got a hundred different people shouting beta as CT said reaches rock concert level and then just gets plane annoying for everyone. Would have to agree with with SB as the way we were brought up over the years (me and my daughter) is the one who is giving beta and or instructing is the experience one/teacher, and for us this has been RR-she knows when he speaks to listen, so hence with only one giving beta it greatly reduces the noise decibel at the crag and it is a trusted source. So I am with you SB.

I agree with both. One of the biggest issues we all have as experianced climbers is teaching new people "Climbing Ethics". IF they dont learn from us they will never learn. One problem is when you teach a new guy how to climb you give constent beta, there for new climbers think constant beta is the way to go. WE as teachers/mentors to the newer climbing community must take it upon ourselves to teach the newbs that beta is not always the answer with out the fear of hurting their feelings. If they take offence then obviously they were not ment to be climbers...

The worst thing is when people shout out beta thinking you need it. Helping out a noob is one this and like RR mentioned is warrented and usually welcomed. but some random bozo screaming up to me? No thanks.

Agreed, but again if we dont teach the bozo's as AKC said it when they are newbs they will never learn. I honestly believe anyway we look at it the responsibilty lies within the experianced climbers wheather we like it or not. It they are "Beta Bashers" some one tought them wrong.

Yes i made up "beta basher" some one else can come up with a better nick name..

how about "Beta Slayers" or "Beta Confusers" or Beta Dumbass" or mabye "I didn't ask for any Beta" last one, "Beta confusser" ????

LOL! Beta Basher!

the problem though is a lot of the bozos are experienced climbers that are hell bent on showing everyone how well they know that route or area. It can get bad in a gym too.
I've had some bad experiences with both, although not so much nowadays.

THEN a SMOTING should insue!!!!!!!!!!!!!

oh great now I am going to have to carry the King around so he can perform his Smotings out on the crag, man gonna be a long weekend.

Just remember, you volunteered!

My duty as the Court Jester, and the Queen would have made me.

Well I guess we need to get you the hat and bells!

You laugh, but Lisa is all ready working on it.

Damn, I was going to be the first to make a post yesterday, but alas work got the best of me. but not now. so yeah, what everyone else has said... haha. seriously though, for me - being someone who doesn't climb very well - I appreciate the beta; however, I don't shout something to someone unless they ask for it or they are the type of person who could care less. Usually I don't know what the hell is going on anyways, so I just belay. :)

erica

that last line killed me, right on erica44

oh and phil, you can't be the court jester. the jester has to be someone who can't overthrow the king with his left arm. :)

RR - your comments just go to show why you are the king! You are right - it is up to us to mentor the new folks along and teach them the ropes, so to speak. I guess I shouldn't have been so quick to be a beta basher - I guess that is some recent frustration rearing its ugly head...

Someday I hope to be the person my dogs think I am!

SB you are not a Beta Basher at all. Not even close. They are usually the ones not involved with the climb i.e climber or belayer. And just try to be too helpful. You are a Belay BI#$%, hehe so you dont qualify. But seriously beta bashers stand out, but i dont blame them as mush as i do the person climbnig with them for not saying anything. YES i am at fault some times for not saying anything but we learn as we go....

SB= Beta Basher PFFFTTTTTTT i think not!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think SB just wants to be RR new concubine with comments like that. hehe. JK. :)

*pssstt* RR, it's SMITING not smoting.(smote is past tense) Sheesh, have you done ANY of your How-to-be-a-king and Smiting 101 home work? Tsk-tsk-tsk, this will not do.

your so right, and i even posted the definition, lol

OK, time for the definitive word on Beta. In the true sense on the word "onsight", one must walk up to a climb with no knowledge of it, and do it clean. If even one person yells beta at the climber, it is technically no longer an "onsight", but now becomes a "redpoint". Still a great job, but it has slipped a notch in definition due to NOTHING done inncorrectly by the climber. I for one will tell the beta sprayer exactly what I think of them when I hit the ground if they do this on an onsight attempt. If they are a member of my group, I will let them know exactly what they have done wrong, why it is wrong, and the proper etiquette for when to give beta, (when asked for). It should also be stressed that never being on the climb will preclude one from giving beta, as beta is by definition, advice given through knowledge. I feel that all noobies should be told this when they are first instructed in climbing terminology, along with "on belay", "climb on", "take" and other terms necessary to be safe in this arena. I know we as climbers fail in doing this consistently, and therefore, we are actually the ones to blame for what goes on with our group.
If the beta sprayer is from another group of climbers, then I will calmly walk over and explain what Pludos will do to them if it happens again.
Cheers!

just yell 'shut the'F up, I'm trying to enjoy the climb, solve the problem ON MY OWN!!!" If it's your belayer or team member, OK. If it's unsolicited from the head know-it-all walking about like the king ( no reference intended to OUR king here at site) well it is a bit much to hear a chorus of beta shouters out there.

Oh, and CW, well said above. That piece of information should be printed up and posted at climbs when noobs' arrive during an onsight attempt. BIG signs, metal preferred, nailed to trees and such..

How about nailed to Beta sprayers. "This could be you if you spray", nailed to a person would probably fix that particular problem.
Cheers!