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Woodchuck, my standard belay station

Posted by Jimn72 on 9/29/2007
Woodchuck, my standard belay station

Woodchuck - I just found this from about 5 months ago on a climb up Castlerock in Boulder Canyon. This would be my standard setup for a belay station.

 Go easy on me I can't handle rejection.

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8 comments

Anykineclimb says:

<em>Anykineclimb</em>'s picture

is this on cussin crack?

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

I'm not even sure where this it headed, up or down, with the multiple ropes through those 2 bottom biners. I'm not one for the single cordelette as the final point for the rope to go through.( I assume this is set atop the climb, and for belaying from below?) I easily accept the 3 points of attachment to the boulders, as I gather there are none to lasso' with a full loop of nylon, and not sturdy trees within 15 ft. But not sure what is up with the two lower biners and where/what that purple rope is doing there multiple times. I'll get my gear out for a shot soon, just don't have any rocks nearby to demo it.

Anykineclimb says:

<em>Anykineclimb</em>'s picture

Looks like he clove hitched himself to the anchor but I just noticed the (partially open) D connected to the pear. this looks to be a redirect for the belay but should be through the cordolette's Powerpoint.

I'll generally use a similar setup but clip myself into the "shelf" above the powerpoint

Jimn72 says:

<em>Jimn72</em>'s picture

I took this pic after my partner was off and safe, that is why the locking biner is open. You are right I redirected my belay from a laying position to the right, I also was clove hitched into the belay station. Also you are correct this is on top of pitch 2 on Cussin Crack which I highly recommend to anyone who wants to do a sweet 5.7.

Anykineclimb says:

<em>Anykineclimb</em>'s picture

That damn 2nd pitch up the flaring crack blows though! definately a "cussin" crack!

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Got it. Looks like a nice belay stance( even if reclined) Vaguely remember that climb on the Castle Rock. Spent too much time there years ago (70's)flailing at the Ament hard routes on the river side.

Jimn72 says:

<em>Jimn72</em>'s picture

Those routes are so hard. Robbins and Ament put up the hardest route in the country at the time they put it up, I believe it was Athletes Feat at 11a.

Gill also has a hard 5.12 up there called Gill Crack that at the time, he did as a boulder problem.

I have so much respect for the old school climbers like Gill, Kor, Briggs, Ament, Robbins, Harding, Caldwell (Mike), Wilford, and everyone else I just forgot like Roach and Neptune.

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

yeah, it was Country Club Crack and Athletes Feat that stumped us way back then. Stil amazing climbs.

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