Posted by Rockratz on 6/12/2007
Very Slabby climb alot of mantel and nothing but chips as well in some spots, to stand on as well as crimp with your fingers.
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Bex says:
All I can say is ouch.
woodchuck07 says:
i don't like the looks of that quick draw. I forgot that bolted walls also count as 'leads', even if they are not hero routes of 5.12 or above. Just my trad' brain thinking a first lead is a 5.4 route with a bundle of cams and chocks around your nect to place on it.
Rockratz says:
your right i hadnt noticed but she does look back clipped. On the other subject i dont think she will ever trad lead. It takes some real convincing to get her to sport lead. But i alwasy assumed a lead was a lead if your not on top rope, the only way to climb it is lead it right ?
woodchuck07 says:
Right. A lead it a lead from bottom to top. It's just that I've done so little pre bolted climbing, where a full route is all bolts. Sport' or whatever it may be called. I've seldom found those routes in places where I usually choose to climb.
Rockratz says:
ahh, i havent done alot of trad, esp on anything single pitch. I keep using the excuse i want to be a confident sport 12 climber first. Im just not in the mood to take a fall on trad just yet. I know it would hold it just the thought of it.
climbingtrash says:
That's why the first rule of Trad climbing is to NOT fall RR. hahaha. I was sport climbing 5.12 before I really got into leading cracks and it didn't make it any easier. Just start out small and work your way up.

climbingwall says:
I've clicked onto the pic, and with it enlarged, I checked out the draw. It looks ok to me. she isn't backclipped, and if the draw was turned over, with this being a slab climb, she could fall across the gate and release the rope. So I think it is fine. This is one reason to always have draws that have both gates facing in the same direction, and facing in oppsite directions, to cover all options.
Cheers!
Anykineclimb says:
Cool! Was this from Saturday?
Rockratz says:
yep
woodchuck07 says:
I had to learn leads on trad cuz that was all there was. I did one sport route in the 'montherlode area back in 02 and it was sure easier than any trad leads I've done before. But I would never consider myself a 5.12 climber just cuz of a sport route I did once.
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