Sign In to YourClimbing
Email Prefs
You can opt-out at any time. More information about our privacy practices is in our privacy policy. The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
We never share your data with sponsors and partners, but from time to time we may send you promotional offers that they give to us. You can opt-out at any time. More information about our privacy practices is in our privacy policy. The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
Posted by Rockratz on 6/12/2007
Wife on lead #2

Very Slabby climb alot of mantel and nothing but chips as well in some spots, to stand on as well as crimp with your fingers.

1
2
3
4
5

10 comments

Bex says:

<em>Bex</em>'s picture

All I can say is ouch.

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

i don't like the looks of that quick draw. I forgot that bolted walls also count as 'leads', even if they are not hero routes of 5.12 or above. Just my trad' brain thinking a first lead is a 5.4 route with a bundle of cams and chocks around your nect to place on it.

Rockratz says:

<em>Rockratz</em>'s picture

your right i hadnt noticed but she does look back clipped. On the other subject i dont think she will ever trad lead. It takes some real convincing to get her to sport lead. But i alwasy assumed a lead was a lead if your not on top rope, the only way to climb it is lead it right ?

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Right. A lead it a lead from bottom to top. It's just that I've done so little pre bolted climbing, where a full route is all bolts. Sport' or whatever it may be called. I've seldom found those routes in places where I usually choose to climb.

Rockratz says:

<em>Rockratz</em>'s picture

ahh, i havent done alot of trad, esp on anything single pitch. I keep using the excuse i want to be a confident sport 12 climber first. Im just not in the mood to take a fall on trad just yet. I know it would hold it just the thought of it.

climbingtrash says:

<em>climbingtrash</em>'s picture

That's why the first rule of Trad climbing is to NOT fall RR. hahaha. I was sport climbing 5.12 before I really got into leading cracks and it didn't make it any easier. Just start out small and work your way up.



climbingwall says:

<em>climbingwall</em>'s picture

I've clicked onto the pic, and with it enlarged, I checked out the draw. It looks ok to me. she isn't backclipped, and if the draw was turned over, with this being a slab climb, she could fall across the gate and release the rope. So I think it is fine. This is one reason to always have draws that have both gates facing in the same direction, and facing in oppsite directions, to cover all options.
Cheers!

Anykineclimb says:

<em>Anykineclimb</em>'s picture

Cool! Was this from Saturday?

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

I had to learn leads on trad cuz that was all there was. I did one sport route in the 'montherlode area back in 02 and it was sure easier than any trad leads I've done before. But I would never consider myself a 5.12 climber just cuz of a sport route I did once.

Post new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
Captcha
This question is used to make sure you are a human visitor and to prevent spam submissions.
Copy the characters (respecting upper/lower case) from the image.

There's much more on YourClimbing.com...

Sign up for The Weekly Flash

Email address:
Note:We hate spam, too, so we never rent or sell addresses.

Words + Videos

Pics

the weasel
A #&*%$ load of quickdraws
Going sporty at the Red
desert crack
desert crack bouldering
CA
ccc2
ccc
Deckers Friction
Deckers 2
Deckers
officer friendly1
It's almost winter ice time....well, 3 months
don't waste your summer
Rumney
Hope on gumby Cat
North Six Shooter
creekside bouldering
Next victim?
clipping the draw
belay me

Tags

ashley hamilton badash Bishop Boulder bouldering buildering california canada Castlewood Canyon chile climbing climbingwall colorado colorado springs rockratz competition Crack deep water soloing england foster falls gear Gonzobeer HP40 hueco tanks Indian Creek indoor climbing jacob fellers joshua tree katie brown Little Rock City LRC malta Mexico moab new river rendezvous newsletter obed Ocean Eiler Palouse Climbing Festival pixie mate post of the week red river gorge Red Rocks rock climbing rockratz Rocktown Rocky Mountain National Park slacklining sport sport climbing spudz Stone Fort texas Trad trad climbing Triple Crown university of idaho utah Vedauwoo west virginia yosemite

Most Viewed

Most Commented

Most Emailed

Climbing Around the Web

Best blog posts from YourClimbing.com and around the web

Sign up for The Weekly Flash

Enter your email address here

Your name (optional)

Note:We hate spam, too, so we never rent or sell addresses.