Posted by Jimn72 on 10/7/2007
I took Robin on her first climb ever and decided to throw her on a 5.8 with a roof (I new she could handle it because she has a large personality). She killed the thing in 5.10 retro tennies but as soon as she had to lean back and come down she flipped out and here is a picture of her coming down and laughing to stop herself from crying. She did awesome.
woodchuck07 says:
way to sandbag her into climbing! I got put on a 5.7 overhanging face with slopers all over. Footwear was huge Vasque hiking boot, circa 1973. Imagine my great footwork on that slab of fun.
Jimn72 says:
It's funny because when I take guys for the first time I always put them on something I know they should be able to complete without failure and girls I usually try to guesstimate what limit would really push them hard to achieve success.
I think it has to do with ego's but girls I take never make excuses as to why they are climbing bad (unless it's true, like they are sick), seem to have more fun, have better technique, are better to look at then guys, and I enjoy climbing with more than guys.
Here is the thing though - most of the girls I've climbed with don't have a high level of dedication to climb a lot so you can't rely on them to go with in the winter, high winds, etc. Katie and Badash are not good examples of the girls I usually climb with.
Now before I get crucified let me just say I know this isn't always the case. I do understand and have experienced all types of people who suprise me, I am just saying that this has been my personal experience and probably has a lot to do with the type of people who I am attracted to.
woodchuck07 says:
Completely agree on the psyche and effort of female climbers. Folks, this isn't a new idea. When I wrote and self published a small book back in late 70's( don't ask, it was full of errors and didn't sell well) ...anyway I led off one chapter with that same discovery. Girls loved to climb, to try, no matter what.
In a mixed group of teens, all with no earlier rock climbing experience (and waaay before the plastic/sport/indoor era), the guys always tried to show muscle use, and just bang their way up the rocks. When discouraged or exhausted, they made excuses and just quit , saying it was 'just a dumb sport' in defeat. The girls on the otherhand, were mentally involved, thinking out problems, listening to advice, AND taking the time to use balance and legs much more than the guys. And I agree with Jimn72, they are soo much better to watch and hang with all day.
Then, on the other hand, when they reached a certain age, the attraction seemed to wear off quickly as social circles grew and acceptance in other activities drew them away. Probably didn't help that we have no rocks nearby, and for long into the 90's, not even any climbing gyms or schools with walls in the whole suburban area. There are exceptions as we know (Ash, Crash, Univ.R) but the trend is to lose interest by about age 16 around here. Thanks to Katie, Beth Rodden, and so many other successful female stars who have given such enthusiasm to young climbers today.
climbingwall says:
So, would this route be at North Table by any chance?
Cheers!
igottagetoutside says:
Your observation about females being less dedicated is unfortunately my observation too. Not that its across the board, like you said. Ive gone on many a climbing trip that was, 7 guys and ME. I dont complain about it too much, guys are in general way lower maintenance than girls and a lot less drama too! Myself an exception to the rule of course :D I AM working on a couple of promising female recruits though, might be fun to go on an all girl trip providing they turn out to be the hardasses they long to be :)
Jimn72 says:
That route is at North Table Mountain. I just looked it up and it's called X It. Apperantly it is a 5.9 which I did not think it was. I thought everything on that wall was 5.8 but looking at the Mountain Project website apperantly I was way off on a few things. In my defense I trad climb primaraly and since those are short sport routes that I lead up there it probably feels a little less to me. Well I guess Robin did a 5.9 for her first climb and pulled it off in 5.10 retro tennies. I hope she goes again because she has the same off the couch talent as my girlfriend who happens to be her sister.
She is right at the roof crux in the picture
Cherryman715 says:
There must be something medicinal about Table Mountain... when I lived in Colorado I took a girlfriend there for her first trip. Partially because she lived in Golden, but mainly because I knew I could scramble around and setup a toprope for Thelma and Louise. Like Robin, Marybeth's facial expression was nothing short of miraculous.
Don't stop a-rockin' !
Post new comment