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Getting ready for the ascent

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Posted by galenmacd on 2/10/2008
Getting ready for the ascent
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14 comments

climbingtrash says:

<em>climbingtrash</em>'s picture

Two open cold shuts for a belay anchor?!? Yikes! Where is this at?

Here's a little info I looked up on cold shuts...

Books.google.com
The American Safe Climbing Association




galenmacd says:

<em>galenmacd</em>'s picture

Yeah, thanks for the headsup. i read that link and it definatley puts them into perspective a little differently. The spot is called Firecrag, in the Santa Barbara area. In the end it was a totally safe day of climbing, but next time i'll put up some extra support anchors.

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Is it only the first 'stick clip' to start on? Hope you can place gear like within arms length of them if possible.

climbingtrash says:

<em>climbingtrash</em>'s picture

Those are at the top of the route WC. The big question is, how deep are the grooves in those? They really just need to be replaced.

Galenmacd, how much experience do you guys have? If it were me I'd replace those things, but I've got a drill and have a lot of experience placing bolts. Maybe you could talk to some of the locals about it or even contact the American Safe Climbing Association about someone in your area that could go out and replace those anchors. I hope I'm not coming across as a snobby know-it-all, I would just feel bad if someone got hurt. :)



woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

That's where I figured they should be, if at all. Looks like they are about 15 ft. off the ground, thus my thougt of a first clip. Is it like a practice wall?

Anykineclimb says:

<em>Anykineclimb</em>'s picture

at the very least, you should be belaying off draws to minimize wear onthe Shuts.

Dr. Goodwack says:

Good call on the draws, and all the other posts about back up, replacement, etc. Be safe, and Rock On!

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Hey, nice to see this shot moved to 'featured' status.

ff113 says:

<em>ff113</em>'s picture

I agree use beaners. Top roping on fixed anchors wears them down way to quick. I also agree these should be replaced. those are an accident waiting to happen

climbingwall says:

<em>climbingwall</em>'s picture

My concern is why would they move a shot of a dangerous situation to featured status???? The shot is good, but moving it to featured would seem to suggest that situations like these are OK.
Cheers!

Dr. Goodwack says:

Good point CW...that is otherwise a nice photo, with great perspective, but it has been photo of the day for a couple of months now. But who am I to question...

Jimn72 says:

<em>Jimn72</em>'s picture

You could probably just throw your rope up there and get it in those cold shuts from the ground. I think that would be fun.

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Looks like a 3 pc extension cheater stick could make the reach too. But I like the idea of a rope toss, even if it only caught one of the shunts. And do it blindfolded.

galenmacd says:

<em>galenmacd</em>'s picture

That's the top. It's actually about 20+ feet tall with 3 bolts...

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