Katie Brown's top 10 routes of all time



Posted by katie on 5/10/2007

My editors at YourClimbing.com asked me to list my top 10 favorite routes. OK, here goes...

1. Matthes Crest - Tuolomne, California
Rating: 5.7
Beautiful, big day of being outside and moving on rock.

2. Omaha Beach - Red River Gorge, Kentucky
Rating: 5.14a (or 5.13d depending on who you ask)
The hardest I've ever tried.

3. King Cat - Indian Creek, Utah
Rating: 5.11d
Great route!

4. Burl Dog - Indian Creek, Utah
Rating: 5.12
A little scary, but very unique climbing for Indian Creek.

5. The Bowsprit - Mill Creek, Utah
Rating: 5.13a
Great overhanging route. I love the steep stuff!

6. Yellow Spur - Eldorado Canyon, Colorado
Rating: 5.10
Beautiful day of easy climbing.

7. Flight of the Challenger - Squamish, British Columbia
Rating: 5.12c
Really cool combo of overhanging face climbing and crack climbing.

8. Moratorium - Yosemite, California
Rating: 5.11b
Great thin crack climbing and technical stemming.

9. Mirage - Ceuse, France
Rating: 7c+

10. Royal Arches - Yosemite, California
Rating: 510b
Beautiful morning climb/solo.

OK, those are my favorites. What are yours? Please share...

24 comments

Yann says:

<em>Yann</em>'s picture

i love the jump!!!!!!!!!

gssettles says:

<em>gssettles</em>'s picture

This is a lot harder then I thought it would be. No order.
1. 30 Seconds Over Potash 5.8, Potash Road Moab
2. CreepShow 5.10d The Red KY
3. Bastile Crack 5.7 Eldo CO
4. Out For Justice 5.11b/c The Red KY
5. Ancient Art 5.10 or11? Fisher Towers UT
6. MacGregor Slab 5.8 Outside Rocky Mtn National Park CO
7. Blue Runner 5.9- The Red KY
8. Bitchmoblie 5.8 or 9 The Red KY
9. Liberty Bell 5.8? North Cascades WA
10. Fuzzy Undercling 5.11b The Red KY

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

1. stun gun, 12a at foster falls in tennessee
2. pilsbury, 11a? at foster falls in tennessee
3. best seat in the house, 5.9 at obed in tennessee
4. herbivore, 11a at obed in tennessee
5. la pistola, 12a at foster falls in tennessee

i cant think of any more that really stand out to me... i need to go more places!!!

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

so where is the RRG represented here?  thought you had dozens of great routes there 'Ash.  what up?

Nathan_McBride says:

<em>Nathan_McBride</em>'s picture

I don't know all there names but there are some in New York, Nevada, Utah, and Colorado (Clear Creek, Buena Vista, and yes .....high up on the list is Yellow Spur).

~Our actions today become our youth tomorrow~

CragRatJC says:

<em>CragRatJC</em>'s picture

Way to do your research Nate : )

pavilion1993 says:

<em>pavilion1993</em>'s picture

Well i haven't been very far as far as climbing goes but ill see if i can think of ten.
1. Valdez overhang 5.9
2. Asphalt 5.13
3. popsicle stick 5.11
4. No Preperation 5.13
5. Gone with da wind 5.10
6. Rock River 5.10

and thats all. but i'm going to colorado this summer so more will definatly be added.

no2camalot says:

<em>no2camalot</em>'s picture

Great thread!! Not especially in order, but here are some of mine . . .

1. The Enduro Corner (11c), Yosemite Valley. Hoping to add the full Astroman someday, but its third pitch is one of my best efforts, and it happened to come on the most beautiful crack I've been on.

2. EBGB's (10d), Joshua Tree. Joshua Tree slab masterpiece. Exposed, beautiful, committing, and a puckering finish.

3. Plattendiretissima (5.9), Austria. A 27 pitch romp straight up the Wildkaiser, a limestone peak in the Bavarian Alps.

4. East Buttress of Higher Cathedral (5.9), Yosemite Valley. Long and steep up a brilliantly colored formation, using every kind of climbing technique, with an incredible summit view.

5. Luck Streaks (10d), Tuolumne. Fingers, lieback ramps, underlings out roofs, hand jams, knob stepping, everything! Pitch after pitch of fun.

6. The Yawn (5.9), Tuolumne. Had to put it in here because it seemed so unbelievable that I had so much fun in a flare/ow, and one that looks so ominous from a distance. I'd have wanted the "5.7" corner pitch to go on forever if it hadn't tired me enough already!

7. Butterfingers (11c), Yosemite Valley. A perfect, consistent, pumpy finger crack. My first trad redpoint, and one I had to work pretty hard for.

8. Silent Line (5.10 A2, or 5.11 A0, or 5.13 R), Yosemite Valley. Sustained and physical climbing with five-star handcracks and an outrageously cool chimney. Long raps down a golden wall with killer views of Ribbon Falls and the West Face of El Cap.

9. Moratorium (11b), Yosemite Valley. What Katie said.

10. Tenaya Peak (5.5), Tuolumne. First long trad climb. My partner and I were terribly inexperienced and bungled much of it, but summited by sunset, and our naivete plus being in the most beautiful place in the world made it a great adventure.

Runners up: Epinephrine and Crimson Chrysalis in Red Rocks, Hotline (have to climb it successfully before I can add it; otherwise it'd already be on!), Line Up (sport climb at Jailhouse), Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk, Snake Dike, Mental Physics (Jtree),
Krokus (Castle Rock), . . . Actually I'm not very discriminating. I end up saying most things I climbed were really good!

alpinerack says:

<em>alpinerack</em>'s picture

1. Outerspace, III 5.9 (6 pitches) Snow Creek Wall, Washington. Pitch 5 and 6 is about a 300 foot crack the goes straight up the headwall to the top. Frickin amazing!

2.Solar Slab, IV 5.6 (10 pitches) Red Rocks, Nevada. About 1500 vertical feet of climbing. Great climbing!

3. Dark Shadows, IV 5.8 (4 pitches) Red Rocks, Nevada. Awesome varnished rock. In the shade all day.

4. Givlers Crack, II 5.8 (2 pitches) Givlers Dome, Washington. Great crack that splits the middle of the dome. Very easy but really fun!

5. Diedre, IV 5.8 (6 pitches) Squamish, Canada. Awesome dihedral that climbs the slab.

6. Beckey Route, III 5.6 (4 pitches) Liberty Bell, Washington. I actually only really enjoyed the 2nd pitch but it is awesome! Great chimney moves and awesome views of the north cascades.

7.Canary, II 5.9 (3 pitches) Castle Rock, Washington. Scarey step across move to get to the second pitch. That one move makes it worth it!

8. South Ridge of Ingalls Peak, II 5.4 (4 pitches) Washington. Great easy alpine climb. I climb it at least once a year cause it's so fun. Can be very crowded though :(

9. North East Ridge of Mt. Triumph, III 5.6 (6 pitches) North Cascades, Washington. The climbing is mediocre, the rock kind of sucks, the approach is hell, the experience is worth all of the suffering! Outstanding position deep in the north cascades. Great veiw of the Pickets! WOW!

10. Sticky Revelations, II 5.10a (3 pitches) Prophecy Wall in St. George, Utah. The whole wall is awesome. Great bolted multi pitch climbing on awesome sandstone.

Yes, I know, most of my climbs are moderate alpine climbs. I waste all my energey before I even get on the rock :p Alpine just seems to be the climbs that stick out the most in my mind. Great days with great friends in awesome mountains.
If interested in more info on these climbs check out my website
www.alpinerack.com

Nathan_McBride says:

<em>Nathan_McBride</em>'s picture

!!!Crimson Chrysalis!!!
~Our actions today become our youth tomorrow~

ped says:

<em>ped</em>'s picture

Great topic. I don't have a top 10, but I have a handful of climbs that I'm rather fond of.

1. Ruper in Eldoroado Springs. It's the best 5.8 in the world--or at least that I've climbed. I can't imagine a cooler 8. I love the Ruper Crack and the Traverse. The fourth and fifth pitches are great, especially if you run them together. It could be my favorite all-time climb.

2. Loose Ends. It's a Lumpy Ridge 5.9. It has three really consistently good 5.9 pitches in a row, but each has its own flavor.

3. Chockstone in Eldorado Springs. Really, this is on my list because it's the first 5.10 I ever led. The crux comes early and is just one move, but the rest of the climb is pretty consistent as far as qualtiy

4. Nutcracker in Yosemite. We were there for a week recently and for the first time. It rained half the time. We also wanted to climb Snake Dike, Royal Arches and The Regular Route on High Cathedral Spire, but the weather said otherwise. We did manage to fit in this classic. I actually thought the first pitch was the best. Great stuff!

5. Double Cross in J Tree. For a 5.7 crack, it's pretty awesome I thought. Maybe I need to give Indian Creek a try. I'm partial to cracks.

I echo what badash said about going to more places. Dark Shadows looks inviting. I do plan on doing the Yellow Spur soon. I'll probably be adding that to the list.

Laus Deo says:

<em>Laus Deo</em>'s picture

1. Spook Book, 5.10+, Needles Ca- Open book tips
2. The Rostrum North face, 5.11c, Yosemite, Ca
3. Coyne Crack, 5.12a, Indian Creek, Ut
4. El Matador, 5.10+, Devils Tower, Wy
5. Oz, 5.10 Drug Dome, Toulomne Meadows, Ca
6. Nettles to Positive Vibrations, 5.11c, Incredible Hulk Formation, High Sierras
7. Original Route, 512-, Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks NV
8. Pump-o-rama, 5.13a and others, Rifle Co. (goal route)
9. The Minimum wall/Pipe Dream Wall, 5.12s, Maple Canyon, Ut ( unique cobble )
10. El Shaddiah, Mixed 3 pitch M6/WI6+, Ptarmigan Peak, Anchorage, AK
11. Room to Believe, 5.13a sport, Wookie Wall, AK

Laus Deo says:

<em>Laus Deo</em>'s picture

three more.

12. Grand Wall via Cruel Shoes/split Pillar/Sword/Perry's Lie back, 5.11-, Squamish, BC
13. Colossus, 5.10, City of Rocks, Idaho
14. Owens River Gorge, 510-5.12, clip up haven on user friendly tuffed, Ca

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

ten only!! gotta make a decision here....

klimbien says:

<em>klimbien</em>'s picture

I'am uncap able 2 ree member 2 much stuf lick that, soo this are those that i due:

1- Organasam, Zion N.P. Climbed the first two pitches all free it's like a 5.hard
2- Atomic Indian, Snow Canyon State Park, S. Utah....agian 5.hard
3- Namaste - Kolob Canyon - South Fork Taylor Creek, S. Utah 5.freaking hard
5- The Regular Route, Tuolomne, California 5.8 (maybe)
6- The Canton, Tetons National Park, Wyoming 5.11
7- The Adventure Route, Cedar Canyon on SR-14, Cedar City, Utah
8- Route by campground in J'Tree, has big ruff with bomber hands, 5.hard
9- Oh yeah...one of my most favorite routes to climb and climb and climb over and over and over again is HeadAche Crack, Zion National Park, S. Utah 5.FUN!!!
10- TBA

climbing is gud!

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Too many climbs done with no name, no rating recalled. No particular order here:

1 ------5.6 something fun on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon.
2 Lakeview- 5.5? at Skytop in the Gunks years ago. Scenic. Before they closed it.
3 J'Crack - 5.10 finish at Lumpy Ridge. Just a classic crack of fun and love that friction traverse.
4 Jackson-Johnson route- Hallets Peak, RMNP. 4th of July climb one year. Spectacular.
5 Watermarks- 5.8 face and crack at Devils Lake, Wisc. Just the perfect end of day route to watch the sunset.
6 ??----dont' know name without a guidebook...5.11 bolted route on the right side wall of Motherlode at the 'Red. My first and only sport route ever done, so it stands out in my memory I guess.
7 Mung 5.9 at Devils Lake. 45 ft. of sharp pains and contorsions. We do it as three 15 ft. pitches sometimes, just for the fun of it.
I'll leave out mountaineering routes as this is about ratings, routes. But any long snow, ice and rock slog is worth the pain if the view is all ours on top.

Human Crashpad says:

<em>Human Crashpad</em>'s picture

Short and sweet-

1. Father Figure, JTree CA (.13a)
2. The Gift, Red Rocks NV (.12d)
3. (Something in French), Monaco (7b+)
4. A .13b at the gym just north of here. Absolutely beautiful.
5. Incredible Hand Crack, Indian Creek (.10a)

Human Crashpad says:

<em>Human Crashpad</em>'s picture

Oh, and the rest would be the fabricated routes of Gridwell's at the Playground.

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

Crash - you're list is crazy... thats awesome. SO i guess you are a pretty strong route climber too. (because i've already seen you rip up the bouldering scene...!)

doubleD says:

<em>doubleD</em>'s picture

1. Solar Slab 5.6 Red Rocks, Nv alone on the route all day with igottagetoutide
2. Snake Dike 5.7 Yosemite, Ca first multi-pitch route
3. Durrance 5.6 Devlis Tower, Wy 1977 and 2006
4. Rewritten 5.7 Eldo, Co
5. Bastille Crack 5.7 Eldo, Co
6. Touch n Go 5.8 Eldo, Co used to climb this every trip to Eldo
7. Cat in the Hat 5.6 Red Rocks all for the last pitch!
8. Ruper 5.8 Eldo, Co
9. Green Spur 5.9 Eldo, Co
10. Werk Supp 5.9 Eldo, Co

climbingwall says:

<em>climbingwall</em>'s picture

1. Friday the 13th, Vedauwoo, Super hand crack in a diehedral, no sharp feldspar, unusal for Vedauwoo.
2. Bastille Crack,Eldo Canyon,1st multi-pitch trad route led.
3. Touch-n-Go, Eldo Canyon, Love the hidden James Bond hold when your almost ready to give up on the mantle.
4. Edwards Crack, Vedauwoo, Nothing like tearinging yourself up early in a route. Thinner is better.
5. The Owl, Boulder Canyon, nice hard wide hands halfway up, and an overhanging crack to surmount the roof.
6. Country Club Crack, Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon, Crux in two moves, then easier sailing, except for the pump.
7. Roofs and Ledges?, Greers Ferry Lake, Arkansas, Deep water soloing, shown route by local who didn't know if this was the routes name or not.
8.Ce la Vie, Eldo Canyon, Love the thread.
9.(Politically incorrect name), Vedauwoo, put up on lead by myself and former Roommate. Slab and Horizontal cracks, finish with thin hands.
10.Credibility Gap, Garden of the Gods, a must do route, see my pic above, shot from the anchors.
Cheers!

RockRat says:

<em>RockRat</em>'s picture

1) Childhood's End, Big Rock Candy Mountain, South Platte, Colorado
2) Fine Jade, Castle Valley, UT
3) Not My Cross To Bear, Penitente Canyon, Colorado
4) Wunche's Dihedral (& Center Route!), Cynical Pinnacle @Cathedral Spires, South Platte Colorado
5) East Buttress Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite
6) Primrose Dihedrals, Canyonlands, UT
7) Standing Rock, Monument Basin @ Canyonlands, UT
8) Sundial Dihedral, Colorado National Monument, Colorado
9) Honeymoon Chimney, Castle Valley, Utah
10) Classic Dihedral, Bucksnort Slab, South Platte Colorado

RockRat says:

<em>RockRat</em>'s picture

... and Scenic Cruise at the Black Canyon, Colorado
and Naked Edge, Eldorado Canyon, Colorado
and Incredible Hand Crack, Indian Creek, UT
and Lightning Bolt Crack, and the Hindu,...
and, umm... this is impossible, there are way too many!!!

Anykineclimb says:

<em>Anykineclimb</em>'s picture

I missed this one. will have to come up with my list...

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