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Yosemite recommendations and aid questions

Posted by ped on 4/26/2007

Hola climbing compadres!

I'm going to be climbing next week in Yosemite, weather permitting. (Yeah!) I've never climbed there and I was wondering what routes any of you might recommend. I think we're looking for mostly moderate stuff that can be done in a day. We want to do some longer routes up to 5.8, or some shorter routes up to 5.9/10a. I think the only route we've settled on so far is Royal Arches.

Also, neither my buddy or I have ever truly aided. First, I can't seem to get a clear answer about what the difference is between 'A' and 'C's in aid ratings. Can someone please enlighten me? I'd love to learn how to aid. What might be some good introductory, single-day aid routes in Yosemite? What gear would we need for such an adventure?

Thanks!

4 comments

katie says:

<em>katie</em>'s picture

Royal Arches is amazing, but get an early start, because it's popular. The East Buttress of El Cap is also a great moderate long route. There's also a really great route on the Manure Pile (better than it sounds) but I can't remember the name of the route! I've also heard that Snake Dike is really classic, although I've never done it.

no2camalot says:

<em>no2camalot</em>'s picture

The 'C' is short for 'Clean', meaning the aid goes without having to hammer in pitons, which you'll probably need for 'A' climbs. If you just have a standard rack of cams and nuts, you'll be looking for 'C' routes. The base of El Cap is probably your best bet. If there's no one on La Escuela, you might want to try that. It's three pitches, 11b - 11a - 10a I think, but the first pitch was my first aid pitch, and I've seen other people learning aid on it, too. Katie's probably thinking of Nutcracker on Manure Pile. All the ones she mentioned are fantastic, and I'd add East Buttress of Middle and Central Pillar of Frenzy. Those are all very popular and can get crowded. The Regular Route of Higher Cathedral Spire puts you in a spectacular spot; it's stout and adventurous (but not especially dangerous), with an approach that's somewhat of a chore, but it's very memorable.

MeganM says:

<em>MeganM</em>'s picture

“Commitment” is a super fun three pitch 5.9 at Five Open Books by Lower Yosemite Falls. Have a good time!

ped says:

<em>ped</em>'s picture

Hey all y'all. Muchos Gracias for the info! All these routes look so awesome it’s gonna be hard to choose. I think we’ll have a grand ole time no matter what. Btw, isn’t there another Manuer Pile in J-Tree? If so, I think I’ve camped right by it.

Oh, and I thought as much regarding the aid rating system, but a mischievous friend was trying to convince me otherwise. Speaking of which, my buddy keeps begging me to do Snake Dike. So I’m going to make him aid La Escuela with me in return (muhahaha!). It seems like once you become proficient at aiding C2/C3, a bunch of longer Yosemite routes open up. Anyway, I’ll post photos and a TR when I return. Hasta!

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