I utterly shamed myself.
I went out Tuesday with a guy to Cooper's Rock. He set up top ropes on Sunset Wall and I totally croaked on the 5.5 and 5.6 he set up (The Arch and the central face climb). My foot work sucked and I felt really edgy on them both.
Part (not all) was due to how unyeildingly vertical the rock is. I felt down right scared on it, even though I was on top rope. I really had myself psyched out about it and it felt MUCH harder than 5.5
So - advice from those of you who have climbed in this area or on similar terrain - how do I get over it? How do I readjust the perception? Maybe I'm just too weak to climb any more - but I did stuff with equivalent difficulty this summer and didn't choke.
It bothers me a lot.
God Bless,
mik
Anykineclimb says:
We all have our bad days. Maybe it was just a fluke? I know I feel a bit weird back on the rock after a break or even on the 1st climb of the day.
mikitta says:
I tried the central face 4 times and never made it past the "crux" (if a 5.5 can have a crux). My foot work got better, but I peeled off on the same knob all 4 times - and by that time, I was to pumped to climb more.
At Veedauwoo - a 5.5 is either a pretty shallow angle (Easy friction, Easy Layback) or just knobby as can be (Walt's Wall), but this was straight up and down and the holds didn't seem intuitive.
I guess I just need to climb more - boulder, work on foot work, get used to vertical gritstone out here. If nothing else, struggling with this WILL make me a better climber.
God Bless,
mik
Microbarn says:
I am familiar with those climbs. With the rock in this area, it is useful to remember layback techniques. Typically when I am climbing poor I will find that I am not committing fully. It is useful to think about how best to use each hold. Don't climb straight up. Climb in the direction the rock tells you to move.
Torquemada says:
^^^ MICROB4RN IZ TEH SUKKKK!!1
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