background on myself,
I've climbed for about 1 year exactly, mainly bouldering. my goal is to increase
my bouldering grade by 1 to 2 levels by the end of the year.
I feel that
strength paramount for better bouldering are finger strength, lock off, contact
and power endurance. I have easy access to a indoor gym but the gym doesn't have
a campus board setup... my training plan right now is this
tuesday
warm up
finger strength training with hangboard
3 finger open hand
3x10 seconds mid-width edge
2 finger pockets 2x8 seconds
3 finger open
hand 3x5 smallest edge
crimp with weight 3x5
sloper holds with weight
3x8
crimp smallest edge 3x5
1 arm wide edge 3x5 for each arm.
rest for 20 minutes
lock off training
uneven grip pullups
3x6rep
steep wall lock off 5x5seconds for each arm
Wednesday
warm up
4x4 in the v3 range (my max bouldering is v5)
thurs-fri
rest
sat-sun climbing
Use that training plan for 4-5 months and
decrease finger strength training and add in contact strength/max recruitment
training.
any critiques and suggestions are most welcome, I'm new to
training for climbing so be nice if my plan looks bad
Anykineclimb says:
DO NOT CRIMP WITH WEIGHT!!!!!!!!!
you're just asking for trouble there. I would focus more on actual bouldering (ie more 4x4s) instead of the hangboard work. My reasoning is that you've only been climbing for a year and should work on technique and movement more than just hangs. besides it'll be "quicker" training as you're doing more than just hanging off your hands/ fingers.
addiction2friction says:
Body tension is one of the most cucial things that you are forgeting, contact strength is one you should focus on also. try not to train on closed crimps or awkward shoulder moves, once you have a finger injury it is a long dificult process to fix. Don't worry about campus board training, just climb 5-7 move problem with lots of movement of your feet. When I was stongest on a campus board I was really good at dynos but weak at actual climbing, now I suck on a campus board but am the stongest I have been with know finger problems. Intensity is the major growth factor for improvement, enjoy what you are doing and dont get injured. rock out and try hard
ff113 says:
Its all about technique. I know women who can pull a 5.12 roof but can only do a few pull ups. Anykineclimb is right, positioning and using your feet is the key!!! Of course strength helps but low body fat and technique will do wonders.
Ben Strohmeier says:
women?! haha I can pull a 5.12 roof and only do a few pullups
Ben Strohmeier says:
if you have a local crag or a good gymm nearby (which you said ou did) I'd focus more on going and climbing rather than training. at your stage of your climbing career it's more important to start getting the feel of moving on the rock and figuring out which positions work best rather than hangboard training (is hangboard oldschool, everyone calls them fingerboards these days). You'd be surprised, unless its straight hard gym climbing you won't use those pullup muscles outright on a wall. also keep the antagonist training in mind, just some pushups and dips, maybe some free weights (I've never used them) to keep from injuring yourself
oh yea DONT CRIMP WITH WEIGHT
Anykineclimb says:
I call mine a hangboard. Fingboards are those little itty bitty skateboards for your fingers.
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