Slab VS Granit

I would say you are not used to the rock. Was it granite slab climbing? That is one of the things I find so cool about climbing. Never lack of something to learn. :) :)

he said sand stone gssettles
I think that whoever graded the
slab problem maybe graded it too high
in your opinion it could be a 12 or whatever

no the granite was not slab, it was more vertical. Its just strange to be able to lead 10's fine on sandstone (slab) but struggle with granite. Guess i just need to get out more and find more granite.

I'm completely confused now, comparing this 'slab' question to one posted on another thread. I have no current definitions I guess.
I know that granite can be frictionless smooth polish, and it also can have the knobby-est crystals for great friction. Sandstone can be soft, almost crumbly, and hard with great friction quality. I've never defined any kind of rock as 'slab'. I understand a slab to be a low angled rock of any kind; far less than vertical and possibly even a no-hands version. All rock surfaces can be at low angle, thus 'slab' as I've read the term used in climbing guides for years. IF it has taken up a new use in sport or bouldering guides of last decade, well that leaves me baffled.

I've seen it the same as you, woodchuck. Slab, low-angled rock that is more or less standable on. Not refering to the type of rock. And as for the granite/slab difference, Robin mentioned once how hard it was for him to get used to Yosemite-style climbing, so you just need a little more time to learn the ways of granite.

Understood, maybe my post should have been titled slab ratings vs Vertical Ratings. Does that make more sence?

Your just not used to the rock. Shoes can play a big part in it as well. Shoes that are tighter fitting or slippers that allow your toe to slide to the tip of the shoe when you stand on them are good for granite edges. Plus if you were in a humid area and climbing on granite, then it would be even more difficult.

If it was more humid on any rock it would be more difficult

There is a definite difference in how granite feels vs. how sandstone feels. Vertical is also very different than slab. Having climbed primarily at Veedauwoo, when I went to the Sylvan Lake area of the Black Hills Needles, I found the unyielding vertical nature of the formations somewhat daunting. I want to go back there someday, though - awesome climbing!

Now, here in WV, most of the climbing is very vertical in nature - that is I have not seen any slabs in my limited explorations. But due to the nature of the rock (weathered by water and wind into dishes, dips and pockets), there are lots of varied holds. When I first saw pictures of the Gorge, I couldn't believe some of the ratings were only 5.7 to 5.8 because of how steep it is. I was interpreting it through my experience on Veedauwoo granite. Anything that steep and seemingly featureless at the Voo is 5.hard LOL.

One thing you might try next time you go to the Flat Irons or Voo or any other granite area, do some low to the ground bouldering and look at the way the microcrystals create little edges. When the face is steep, you have to edge these things that may be no thicker than your toenails - but you will stick :)

Of course, if you were doing crack climbing, it's a whole different thing :) Cracks on sand stone and granite are roughly equivalent concerning technique. Sandstone is softer - which is both good and bad at the same time. Good in that it doesn't have a tendency to eat your body. Bad in that sometimes it doesn't feel as secure to me as a similar crack in granite would - because it's softer.

When it all comes down to the ground, I like both types because they offer different perspectives on our sport :)

God Bless,
mik

and then you've got glass smooth quartzite. you play on that and NOTHING you've learned works. No friction like granite, no crystals to tickle your toes on. And vertical or worse. You think sandstone cracks feel insecure? Just stuff your arms into a sweaty quartzite crack on a hot humid afternoon in Wisconsin. Expect to thrash about on a 5.6 wondering why you aren't off sailing in the lake instead that day.

Yeah, Devil's Lake sucks.

But it's home to me, all I got within 4 hours so I got to make the best of it.