Posted by konathewarrior on 1/15/2008
Hi guys, I need some advice on rockclimbing shoes. At this point, they all look the same, and I can't tell the difference between what I need and what is simply added benefit to the more experienced. I'd really appreciate any advice on brand and "good" price points for a newbie. Thanks :-)
climbingwall says:
It all depends on what type of climbing you are going to be doing. For the best prices, Madrocks are the way to go, and they have good shoes as well. Just ask around the gym if that's where you'll be doing the most climbing. I'm sure eveyone will have an opinion on this subject. Also, you might check out "Climbing" magazine's shoe review.
Cheers!
voltigeur says:
I work as an out fitter and from the fittings I have worked I find the Sportiva Mythos to be one of the most comfortable all around shoes for beginners. Eventhough this is one of the priciest shoes in most stores. Most customers like them although many shy away from the $120.00 price tag for the $69.00 Mad rocks or $70.00 5.10 Cyote and Evolves.
Madrocks will last under moderate use about a year and a half and are price pointed to be replaced regularly. Evolve slippers are a comfortable but the synthetic material will require mass abounts of lysol.
If your buying your forst shoes go in with an open mind. Try them on and see what is the most comfortable. A perfect fit is big toe tight in the toe box and heel firmly inplace with out being curled. Get as close to that as possible erring on the side of too tight but not painful.
Every manufacture has their own idea of the perfect foot. The cuts are different and you need to find the cut that is right for you. Also most people have one foot larger than the other. This will show up on rock shoes. Try on both shoes beofre laying down your money.
zdanowicz says:
i would go with the 5.10 anasazi's i know a lot of people that like them a lot and i'm planning on them being my next pair of climbing shoes
Anykineclimb says:
go to a GOOD shop and try some on. DO NOT mail order your 1st pair! Something in a stiff, lace up would be best for a beginner. Stay away from slippers for now.
woodchuck07 says:
Agree 100%. No mail order shoes unless you plan on shipping them back and forth for right size about 4 times. Do not trust any Euro/US conversion chart either, as they all seem to differ and the manufacturer often strays from exact sizes. You gotta try it on. Comfy for newbees, slightly tight for intermediates. Skip the slippers and velcro shoes until you better know what your goals are. And something I learned last summer: Don't try on shoes to purchase right after a full day of climbing. My foot was in post-climb 'crushed toes' state yet, so the new shoes fit just wonderfully. Next AM I couldn't cram my feet into those Red Chili's no matter how I tried.
captain static says:
As far as brand, I climbed in 5.10 Anasazi's until Katie and Tutugirl converted me to La Sportiva about 10 years ago when they were both sponsored by them. I have been strictly a La Sportiva man ever since. For a beginner I would recommend a lace up with a leather upper. Both the Sportiva Mythos and 5.10 Coyotes fit this bill and are good suggestions. I have heard good things and read good reviews about Acopa but have never tried them. Their Aztec look like a good all-around shoe and is decently priced at $98.
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gonzobeer says:
I still use my 5.10 coyotes, they're really good trad shoes, great in cracks.
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