Posted by Dan on 10/16/2006
Hi! I've got a problem with my middle finger on my right hand, and I'm keen for any advice.
The middle pulley hurts, but it only hurts if I'm putting pressure right on the location.
I can crimp down as hard as I can and it doesn't hurt, it only hurts if the middle section of the finger touches the rock. If I massage my finger in that spot it hurts.
The soreness has been getting worse over the past 2 weeks, I just try to avoid putting pressure on that part of my finger, but I thought the pain should have gone away by now.
Does anyone have any ideas what this injury is and how to fix it?







no2camalot says:
Dan,
I had a pulley problem two years ago, and it sucked! Mine also hurt when direct pressure was applied, but it also hurt when crimping. It there are no climbing grips that cause pain, it may be that there's no tendon or pulley damage at all, but rather just inflammation. You can try the usual stuff: anti inflammatories, warm water finger baths and massage (to promote circulation in the region of the injury), and tape for a little extra support when climbing (but be careful not to wrap too tightly, and make sure the tape's not masking any pain that would otherwise be a good indicator to let off). The reality is, though, that fingers can take a long time to heal, and there's not a lot we can do to help them. There's sadly no snake oil or magic treatment that does the trick. The main thing is to not exacerbate the injury. The doctor I saw, who was a hand specialist, basically said to let pain be your indicator. If climbing doesn't cause pain in the finger, it's probably ok to keep climbing. If it does, change something (easier grade, different holds, etc.). On the bright side, when my ring finger was injured for a long time, it forced me to get creative in order to work around it, and I think I started climbing more smoothly. I thought about sawing off half an index finger so I could free El Cap twice in a day, but couldn't bring myself to do it :). Good luck!
yedrek says:
aw man.. that was wrong. haha.
yedrek says:
The other thing you can do is tape it to your ring finger. It will limit some movements and grips, but it will disperse the strain on both fingers. tape it in two places.
MNclimber says:
good work no2camalot, lots of good information.
i wonder about this specific injury that Dan has described. has injury been done to the tendon itself? or simply to a pulley?
without pain while crimping, which puts a great deal of pressure on the pulleys, im guessing that the pulleys themselves are fine. ive experienced both the injury that dan describes, and the damage that no2camalot describes, and feel that there is a distinct difference.
any doctors or pts (or knowledgable climbers) want to weigh in?
badash says:
I'm in the same situation. WIth both my middle fingers. I tape them, although i have been told that the only way to fix them totally is to take a break. A long break.
Ben Strohmeier says:
and what is it if direct pressure doest hurt and bending dosnt hurt but crimping and pushing the joint from side to side does
yedrek says:
bruised bone maybe?
Ben Strohmeier says:
cool, as long as im not overworking a tendon or anything thats going to put me out of commision for a while
Sandyboy says:
Dan, I hav exactly the same prob. Its flippin sore. Any lateral movement of the joint of middle finger or any pressure on affected joint. It clicks really easily too (not deliberately). Its driving me bonkers. Dont want to make it worse so avoiding climbing. Taping hasnt really helped me, Cant believe how long it takes to recover. Good luck man!
Sandyboy says:
Found this website by the way. Check it out. Im gonna give it a go. Must be worth a try I guess.
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