How do you train?

well firstly, climb!! Then sometimes hangboard exercises and yoga helps a ton too.

"Anyone need advice on making the transition from 5.12 to 5.11 ?" — Andy Cairns

Well, I got over the whole idea of 'training' years ago. I trained way too hard as a teenager, and now just stick to climbing when I'm motivated, and not when I'm not. And strangely enough, I can still haul my ass up the wall pretty well, plus I'm actually more motivated. In general though, I climb three to four days a week, and pretty much exclusively outside right now.
If you're new to climbing, I would DEFINITELY suggest just sticking to climbing for now. If, however, you've been climbing for some time, and still want a few training tips, let me know. I'd be more than happy to suggest a few.

I generally alternate between Power and Power-Endurance training during the week. I'm usually in the gym about four days a week. You can see my current training schedule on my blog (http://www.yourclimbing.com/blog-adult_team_workout_schedule).

nice nice reviews and sharing of training tips.

Climb outside. It's all you really need.

training is a hard subject to cover because even after climbing for a year and a half I've realized that everyone is different and what helps one person might not help another. for instance my friend eric is rediculously strong and he'll climb for hours and then do tons of sets on the campus board. for me I have to be careful not to over do it otherwise my elbows might get a little sore. I'm all about training and staying focused but make sure you listen to your body and don't do something because someone else is doing it. if your hurting then stop pushing it or you might soon regret it. now that I'm done ranting go train!!

How often do you train? -- 2 or 3 days a week. It is imporant to give your muscles a break!

Mostly in the gym or outside? I train indoors. I see what I've worked for when I climb outside. (You should get outside at least once a week - it helps keep motivation to pull on plastic and train)

What kinda training do you do? 4 by 4s, pyramids, pull ups, push ups, weight training, and much more... if you want me to explain I will....

Maybe a few tips? -- Don't quit. If you are in a long exercise it might be boring and you might not want to finish. Push yourself. Remind yourself of that problem or route that you are projecting outside. Want it. Realize you are getting stronger. And in general, have fun. If you arent having fun while pushing yourself and training, then dont do it!!!

Hope that helps! (i feel kinda stupid telling you how I train considering you've been climbing for 10 years and i've been climbing for 3, but whatever!!! maybe it'll help??!)

I know all about pushing yourself in the gym to see the results outside. I'm trying to get in shape for the rope this spring. my strength is really high from bouldering almost exclusively for 6th months+ and a week at hueco, but my endurance is rediculous right now. me and a friend traversed around our gym for an hour yesterday. it was really tough to stay on the wall that long and I didn't think we'd be able to last that long but it went well. I decided I'm going to do it once a week cause I know it will pay off in a few weeks at the crag. did you guys read that article on CATS in the new UC? that gym looks sick!! I wish I had a place like that to train. my gym is more a 'business'/birthday gym. not enought steep terrain. better than no gym at all though. we should start another thread and give descriptions on how we train. It would be a great way for us to get new ideas for training. just a thought.

I recently was sitting in a small gym listing to a "retired" Frenchman talk about his 5.14 days. He noted that when insanely good climbers are at their peak, they train more than they climb. In fact, they only climb maybe once a week and train for the rest of the six days.

On the other hand if you are obsessed with climbing and laugh kindly when people tell you to take a break (like me), you hit the gym/crags everyday and don't get nearly enough down time. This stops you from getting that Hercules feeling when you start climbing after a rest day.

One last detail: hardcore napping is wonderous.

YEAH - that CATS gym looks SUPER SICK!

Ah, I remember. Supreme hold density. I worry about the polish effect, though.

But yes, 'tis sick.

yeah the article said some of the problems (which could possibly be some of the hardest indoor problems in the world?) have been up for twenty years. polished but I guess if your climbing that hard there should be no excusses.

I'm going to check out the CATS gym this summer so i am super pumped about that.

My room is amazing (thanks to my dad). My bed is suspended from the ceiling in a box with climbing holds covering the outside, my walls are covered in holds too i have a overhang with a ladder and a couple dynos and a hangboard.

the only problem is, Holds are freakin' expensive, like $50 bucks for five holds!!

dude that sounds pretty freakin cool! put some photos up of your room so we can all fantasize about how we all want your room.

Hods can be expensive I paid 3 hundred for the wood for my wall, and like 4 hundred for the holds.

I love those Buddha holds. Upside-down they have nice nose pockets. But if I were to buy a bunch of holds for my room I'd get the $60 sets of a bunch of sharp footholds that double as crimpers.

that sounds like my dream room! oh, and crash -- i like the buddha holds too... the one at my gym is upside down at the moment, actually!!!

to get better just do ALOT of bouldering. iv only been climbing for maybe 5 months and iv been mainly bouldering and my performance has increased dramaticaly. dont do the easy routes. try the routes that u hav never done before. like trying something that is out of ur scale. but mainly boulder.

yeah bouldering is the way to go for training. If you go to a climbing gym, depending on how often you go, I would do 2 days of boulderin and one day of routes, or 3 days of bouldering and one day of routes. but remember, if you can get outside any or all of those days then do so. plus climbing outside is way more fun anyway.

climbingbum, you know more about training than some people do after years. You're right on about trying impossible routes, it means you excersize harder and more complex moves that you'll eventually get used to.

I am doing some specific ice/ mixed training this summer. right now, its about once a week. I'm usually climbing 1-2x a week outdoors. I am sorta "training" when going outside though. I'm planning on going to Indian Creek thin November so we're focusing on cracks all summer to get our tgechnique better.
I don't go to gyms, I prefer to spend my money on gear ;)

yeah I agree. gyms are kinda expensive but I climb for free cause I work as a route setter so it's not so bad. plus setting itself gets me really strong cause I'm one of those setters who has to climb whatever I'm setting (route or boulder problem) move by move to make sure it goes and it's fun with no akward movement. I'm all about getting outside as well. I especially love getting out to places I don't get to visit to often. or even better places I've never been. like my trip to hueco earlier this year was probably one of the best weeks of my life. craggin' at the local spot is fun but experiencing the adventure and wildness that comes along with exploring a new destination is like nothing else.