Hangboard Training

There is an insane
number of people that ask about hangboard workouts, but an amazingly small
amount of profitable discussion that I can find. I would like to group
everything I did find into one place. After searching for a while here is my
abbreviated summary. I hope that it helps others and is useful. I tried to give
all the opinions that I found on topic.

In every thread and topic people
have cautioned about overuse of the hangboard. Many people are of the opinion
that they should be called injuryboards instead of hangboards. Pretty much
everyone said to warm up and cool down atleast 10 minutes before and after. Some
people suggested more is better. I would like to add this link from nicros on
injury prevention:
http://www.nicros.com/...iding%20injury.shtml

Metolius
was the most helpful website overall:
Basic uses for some common holds

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...20Brochure%20Std.pdf

General training guide: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...ingguidesgeneral.htm

three board specific workouts that could be modified:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...-pureforce-train.htm
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...-simulator-train.htm
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto-trainrockring.htm

Their 10 minute guide:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto-10min.htm
advanced
training guide:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto-advancedrr.htm

8a.nu had a hard to find hangboard workout that many recommend
http://www.8a.nu/...s/hangboarding.shtml
It is very
specific without a lot of talk about why. So, it may be harder to figure out
what to change for your needs.

Horst as always is a good source for
training information:
http://www.nicros.com/...ard_training_1.shtml

A great
article that mentions some hangboard workouts done by rockprodigy is here:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...es/index.php?id=2140

A
collection of recommendations from various posters and various threads follows.
(Yes, this is similar to the tradgirl.com layout.) I tried to not take them out
of context. I also did not put them in any kind of order. If you are curious
about the context, all the comments came from these threads: