There's no TRAD forum..so I figured I'd post in aid since most of my Trad climbs are Aid anyways....
So I've recently had several of my friends inquire about the transition from Sport Climbing and Bouldering to Trad climbing...
My response to both has been: "Don't do it, its not worth it...you have things to live for, such as your Wife (and dog in the one dude's case.)" Its it wrong for me to discourage my friends from Trad climbing? First off, it cost a lot of $$ to start + you really can get seriously injured...especially when you're starting. Its like playing Russian Roulette...especially with a lot of the routes in West Virginia/North Carolina.
There's always the Pilot Error scenario...it just seems that Traditional climbing is a lot more dangerous....
Thoughts?
climbingtrash says:
It just depends on how hard the trad routes are. If they're strong sport climbers/boulders they should find a 5.6 trad line super cruiser. It doesn't have to cost that much, unless you are trying to accumulate and Indian Creek rack of cams. I only started leading trad 6 years ago after sport climbing for 10 years. It's definitely more dangerous than sport climbing but at the easier grades most climbs are pretty straight forward. I say help 'em out if that's what they want to do.
dbrayack says:
Yah, but seriously...if you're a sport climber, you're going to want to "push it" on trad routes...I mean...that's what I do...I'm a sport climber gone coverted and it seems that I put myself into the "danger" zone a lot more often on traditional routes....
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climbingtrash says:
That's why Mother Nature invented "Natural selection" db.
Seriously though, I know that's a possibility with stronger climbers but how else are they going to learn? I don't want to see anyone get hurt or killed climbing. But that's always a possibility, isn't it?
dbrayack says:
I suppose so....I just don't want my buds to see they way that I climb traditional routes, think its cool, and want to try it when they have wives/dogs to care for....
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Ladianne says:
I suppose the thing to remember is that the employment of good judgement in any climbing scenario can mean the difference between life and death. And, as in life in general, there are factors beyond the control of the climbers (such as loose rock, bad weather, etc.). That said, the element of risk inherent in this sport is what can tend to make it more exciting. But certainly, climbing even the most tame of trad routes can tend to put things into crystal clear perspective in very short order!
woodchuck07 says:
ONce you get tired of pushing the 'numbers' of sport and you see you missed the real calling of Traditional Mountaineering, route finding, decisions of life and death, climb or retreat and most of all, not a 'one pitch' playground, you will find the peace and wisdom that REAL climbers experienced for a hundred plus years since the golden age of mountaineering. Trad' is the only way. Sport is a sideshow, a game, not the real thing. Shame so many today have no idea what the real world is about out there in the backcountry. We don't carry crash pads for our adventures. Get it?
Ladianne says:
Well said, WC. There is also something amazing that happens when you realize how very limiting sport climbing can be in some regards, and how much more of the world opens up to you when you try new pursuits such as Trad'. That said, it is definitely not for everyone. Nor can a sport climber just waltz into Trad' land and assume they'll be sending four pitch 5.13 routes in the trad arena. Just isn't that way..... Trad' can be really humbling....and eating humble pie is really important to do from time to time I believe.
woodchuck07 says:
Well put Lady'.
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