Advice on a 5.9

Hey there. Do you climb at Climb Nashville? What shoes do you have? They should be nice and snug... tight but not unbearable. Work on your technique - try to FLOW. Try to use "silent feet," where your feet dont make any noise when they step on a hold.

Focus on gracefullness.

Try doing a little endurance training. Pick a couple boulder problems under your limit, and do them in succession. The more time you spend on the wall, the more stamina you'll have. If you're a new climber, the reason you're having problems probably has more to do with lack of technique than shoe performance. Don't force it, and don't get frusterated. Just keep at the route, because it clearly has something to teach you. Oh, and don't forget to breathe

Thanks for the comments guys. Yeah I was looking at some sites last night with climing technique on them and I think that is my problem just not using proper technique. I have weigh lifted pretty seriously for the last five years so I think I try to pull to much with my arms. Yes, I climb at Climb Nashville on Monday nights (Student Discount). I am using rental shoes right now but hope to find a pair for a decent price this weekend. Thanks

As a new climber, you probably climb more with your hands than with your feet. If your not using your feet properly, then you may as well just campus the whole problem. Precise and quiet as they say.

You should also start climbing with straight arms. This allows you to move your feet freely and takes less stress off the biceps (lockoffs).

At this point, you may even want to consider taking a class in turning, or learn it from others in the gym. Such things as turning, flagging, drop-knee, etc. can help you learn better body positioning, as well as efficiency. Just by learning better technique can help you conquer 5.9 in no time.

Good Luck
--CrazyGil

hey whats your name? cause badash(ashley) and I (john michael) both climb there. just work on being smooth and geting your stamina up. and dont just try to use your arms your feet can help so much on certain routes.

Go on a Tuesday or Thursday sometime. I'll be there, and I'll teach you something.

I used to work there on mondays but i stopped.... but im in there from wednesdays from time to time. (wednesdays have student discounts too)

My names Marc, We went to climb nashville last wednesday (student Discount). It would be great to get some hands on input from you guys, my girlfriend climbs with me and she has stuck with me up all the current 5.8's at climb nashville. Thanks for the input guys i'm going to King's Bluff in the morning to meet my climbing class instructor (Michael Bingham) up there so i'll ask him to help me with it tommorrow.

sweet, good luck. We are bound to meet at the gym sometime, considering im there ALOT.

yeah thats awesome. Im not in the gym as much as i used to be cause of school right now but maybe ill meet you sometime. good luck with everything

Work on footwork. Get it as precise as possible. Do the moves over in your head. And do some traversing as well. Also start climbing with or watching a number of people. The more people you climb with the more you can take from different styles. Beyond that it's mental.

PS-Climbing outside will help your skill so you can train on the harder routes inside. It sounds weird but they will compliment each other.

Our actions today become our youth tomorrow.

I'm pretty new too, like I've been climbing 2 months maybe a little more, The silent feet thing really helps (I took lessons and they put bells on my feet). I also started climbing better when I finally learned to keep my damn arms straight, and leaned to breath. I can do 5.8 some days, mainly I'm on 5.7s.

I've been climbing for like 3 months now, and one thing to remember is to just relax. A lot of the times I see people who are trying to go through routes really fast and their feet are always slipping off. Just take your time and work the moves out.

I've only been climbing for 5 months or so, but I had a breakthrough period where I went from 5.8 up to 5.10a/b in like a month. I never heard the term "silent feet" that I'm seeing on this forum, but that was definitely a big part of it, as was learning to get my feet up high whenever possible. I'm 6'1" with a +3 ape, so I was trying to do everything the burly way, with long reaches and pullup-style moves. I got better when I started climbing more with Stella, a girl who was 5'0" and 100 lbs. who kicked my ass on every route. The biggest thing she taught me was to get my feet up higher than I felt could possibly be practical, and then "rock" my weight over that high foot and stand up to reach the next hand. Also, I learned a lot from watching the smooth way she would carefully lift each foot, and then slowly yet firmly place it onto the next bit of nothing she was able to stand on.

It also helped when somebody showed me how to crimp. If you haven't learned that yet, somebody can show you in five seconds, and it will help you immensely on those small holds.

~Ross

Some one once said that she could just "do it" but couldn't explain how very well to other people. I'm no expert, but I have found out a couple of things. By watching, listening, and reading I have improved my technique just a little. By practicing at the gym regularly I improved it significantly. Lastly, don't be too impressed with yourself climbing those ratings in the gym because when you get outside things are very different, and when you lead outside, it is a whole new ball game (no pun intended).
"A good scare is worth more to a man than good advice."
----Ed Howe American journalist