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Posted by Sallygirl on 7/20/2007

How do you improve/get stronger at locking off and making a big move? I am 4'11" and I have to do that a lot lately on harder climbs or at the gym when I can't find or there isn't an intermediate hold. (I know - I shouldn't use my height as an excuse)

5 comments

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

I think that the best way to improve is simply to practice.

I have to do that alot too --- i'm alot taller than you, but I'm still "short" compared to alot of other climbers. I'm 5'3.

One exercise I do to practice lock-off's is to get on a fairly easy boulder problem or climb and every single move just lock off and hold it for 5 seconds. Every move to every hold. by the time you reach the finishing hold your arms want to give out.... do another problem and do the same thing.

I'm still learning how to make a big move from a lock-off. For girls, its easier for us to just put our feet up really really high and inch our fingers to tne next hold. If i find out a good exercise to make long moves off of a lock-off, i'll let you know... but if you simply want to train lock-offs, then do that exercise. (you can also practice on a hangboard!)

hope that helps.

Sallygirl says:

Thanks! Much appreciated. I will try that.

Ben Strohmeier says:

<em>Ben Strohmeier</em>'s picture

also try negs on a hangboard where you pull up and then take about 10-15 seconds to lower back down. That helps lock off strength at every angle rather than just with your arm fully flexed. but then i dont lock off, being 6'2 with a +2 ape index doesnt require that so much, unless of course its to skip an entire crux =)

katie says:

<em>katie</em>'s picture

What you need: a pull-up bar and a length of webbing. Tie the webbing to the pull-up bar. To start with, you're going to do two hand lock-offs, so basically you're going to pull up and hold the position for a predetermined length of time (almost to failure but not quite. If you go all the way to failure it will be hard on your elbows). Repeat this five times. While you're holding the lock-off position, try and touch your chin to one hand, and then the other, back and forth.
Then, as this gets easier, you're going to start practicing one arm lock-offs. Pull up on the bar and lower one hand to the webbing about half a foot down. This will put the majority of your weight onto one arm, but will still give you an assist. Try to hold this lock-off. Usually, I end up not really being able to hold the lock-off for long at all, so it kinda ends up being just a slow reverse one arm pull-up with the other arm assisting. That's okay. It's still going to be strengthening your lock-off. Do this with each arm several times.
Hope that makes sense. If you're confused let me know and maybe I can make a short video clip of how to do it.

Sallygirl says:

Thanks! I think it makes sense. I will try and let you know.

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