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4x4 question: what to do next?

Posted by labadaxa on 12/4/2007

am in the midst of a six week window with limited opportunities to get outside.
The outside days vary a lot depending on what I'm able to get in -- they've
including bouldering at Priest Draw, toproping laps on granite slab, and
introducing a newbie to trad climbing (so, easy crack climbs).

I have
been doing two days a week at the gym, bouldering 4x4s. My sequence is V0
(slightly overhung), V1 (steep), V2 (steep), V1 (vert). Combined, the problems
are about 45 moves, and take me about five minutes.

Previously, I did
4x4s for the first time this August, with a V0,V0,V1,V1 set.

I am going
on my third week of 4x4s, and have another 2-3 weeks where I am largely confined
to the gym. I'ld like to keep working on my endurance, as it is my weakest link
these days. So, what should I do next? Some options:

1. Bump my 4x4. I
think I could raise the session to V1, V1, V2, V2 -- that's taking two of the
four problems up one notch.

2. Pyramids. Never done these.

3.
6x8s. Never done these either.

4. CIR roped laps. I did two versions of
these early in the fall: One was outdoors and comprised 350' of laps on 10a
granite slab. The other version was in the gym and comprised 400' of face and
crack TR problems.

5. I've got a great bouldering cave at home. Pretty
much all of the problems are horizontal:

So, I could spend my remaining time on uber-pumpy workouts.

Once
I am back outdoors, my climbing will be a mix of trad, sport, and bouldering.
High points in the last twelve months are 10d lead trad, 12a lead sport, V3
outdoors, and a V4 indoors. Winter goals include an 11a trad, and my second 12a
sport.

Any suggestions for getting the best of my remaining gym time are
welcome. Thanks!


EPiCJAMES


Nov 21, 2007, 3:35 PM

Post #2 of 2 (289 views)
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Registered: Aug 7, 2007
Posts:
279

Re: [bkboyd] 4x4 question: what to do next? [In reply to] Can't Post

bkboyd
wrote:

I am in the midst of a six week window with limited opportunities to
get outside. The outside days vary a lot depending on what I'm able to get in --
they've including bouldering at Priest Draw, toproping laps on granite slab, and
introducing a newbie to trad climbing (so, easy crack climbs).

I have
been doing two days a week at the gym, bouldering 4x4s. My sequence is V0
(slightly overhung), V1 (steep), V2 (steep), V1 (vert). Combined, the problems
are about 45 moves, and take me about five minutes.

Previously, I did
4x4s for the first time this August, with a V0,V0,V1,V1 set.

I am going
on my third week of 4x4s, and have another 2-3 weeks where I am largely confined
to the gym. I'ld like to keep working on my endurance, as it is my weakest link
these days. So, what should I do next? Some options:

1. Bump my 4x4. I
think I could raise the session to V1, V1, V2, V2 -- that's taking two of the
four problems up one notch.

2. Pyramids. Never done these.

3.
6x8s. Never done these either.

4. CIR roped laps. I did two versions of
these early in the fall: One was outdoors and comprised 350' of laps on 10a
granite slab. The other version was in the gym and comprised 400' of face and
crack TR problems.

5. I've got a great bouldering cave at home. Pretty
much all of the problems are horizontal:

[image]http://www.briankboyd.com/climb/Images/cave_new1.jpg[/image]

So, I could spend my remaining time on uber-pumpy workouts.

Once
I am back outdoors, my climbing will be a mix of trad, sport, and bouldering.
High points in the last twelve months are 10d lead trad, 12a lead sport, V3
outdoors, and a V4 indoors. Winter goals include an 11a trad, and my second 12a
sport.

Any suggestions for getting the best of my remaining gym time are
welcome. Thanks!

most of your holds look like jugs. try some more
slopers and some crimps. is that a crack climb in the far post and roof? looks
like you're really maximizing what you got. looks like fun.

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