Laus Deo's blog

Check out www.athletikspesifik.com, David Wahl has some of the best information I have seen in a long time with regards to training for climbing.

Grant Walker
Laus Deo

I have thought of a couple of things that I do, given the huge amount of information out there; to keep things simple:

1. fad diets are dangerous and don't allow athletes to maintain enough nutrients to sustain body metabolism and growth. Every caloric nutrient is important for the body to maintain itself- this includes fat. A simple process is to use the food pyramid for referenced eating, serving size and % caloric nutrient intake. For example the Food pyramid suggests 50-60% of intake should come from Carbohydrates, and from this ~ 10% should only come from simple sugar. Become a label reader. FATS~ 20-30% of your diet should be from fats ( this in take requirement is specific in Nutrition for sport blog).

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Ben Strohmeier says:

too much like school
by Ben Strohmeier on Mon, 2007-02-12 10:22 reply | email this page | report misconduct

Grant says:

Ben,

When you send something you have been working on don't you get schooled which allows you to send harder projects. Anything that is usually worth while costs something. You can be a skimmer of information that interests you.

For example, I recently did a search on caffine and its affect on performance. I found ( An RD found this info for me- Use your resources) out that limited amounts of caffine can enhance performance and even help your recovery. No doubt the whole study is quite wordy but the basic info can be drawn out in a few minutes. The study is called Fluid, Electrolyte, and renal indices of hydration during 11 days of controlled caffine consumption, by Armstrong, Pumerantz, Roti, Judelson, Watson, Dias, Sokmen, Casa, Maresh, Liebermna and Kellog (whew). Summary stated no significant diuretic affects with intakes of caffine in the 114 to 458 mg range( 1.4 to 5.0 mg per body kg ). A cup o coffee has ~150mg/caffine, a Rock Star energy drink has ~80mg per serving. Since caffine can increase water loss and decrease performance due to this water loss, this is significeant info ( ACE fitness manual states that with even a 2% decrease in water that is used in metabolic processes you can have a decreaes in performance of up to 35%).

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Here is the skinny. The American Council on Exercise ( ACE) is awesome. They provide training certification programs for personal trainers, trainer specialists, clinical exerxcise specialists, as well as life & weight management cunsultants. They also provided resource materials. The book that I drew from was called the IAFF/IAFC/ACE Peer Fitness Trainer Reference Manual. The Full text is rich. It is called The Personal Trainer Manual. This set you can buy through ACE and is well worth the money you throw down for it. Maybe If you belong to a gym you could put money in and buy a set as a reference guide that would be available for your clients and coaches.

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This information was gathered from a Peer fitness manual for fire fighters written by sports physiologists and Registered dieticians ( see isbn # in previous blog)ect.... But this information is standard to the sports nutrion area of study which you can google and review. Seek out sports nutrition title studies in , i.e. books, websites and recent studies under this heading. Be curious and you will find it out there. But make sure you start with RD articles. They are not always sound but if you cross reference studies ( don't take summary findings published as reliable seek out original studies and remember to keep in mind what is actually being hypothesized and what is trying to be proven. Sometimes correlations are weak if not unfounded. We don't have to be chemists or physiologists- we just have to be curious-

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PERFORMANCE NUTRITION
by Grant Walker

There are 4 primary areas for applying sports nutrition information:
• Energy requirements
• Adequate intake of essential nutrients
• Nutrient intake before, during and after exercise
• Balance of nutrients

Energy is defined as the ability to do work. We exact energy from macronutrients
called carbohydrates, fats, and proteins. Only these nutrients provide
energy. Through a series of chemical reactions, these nutrients are converted to
heat energy to fuel work. Calories, a measure of heat, represent the energy of
food ( PFT Manual page 46).

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Looking for recommends in the 5.12 to 5.13a/b range? short trip to clip up.