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Most climbers I hang with know I'm a gearfreak. If possible I buy a sample of new items just to experience them, maybe write a review or two. I have so many belay devices of different makes that I really can't say I have a favorite. But when it comes to setting up a multipitch route belay, the Petzl Reverso is pretty useful. There was a question in its use in one of the photos posted up a few days ago. Tried to demo here with 3 photos for clarity of what it happening with this nifty tool.
First shot has the Reverso set to bring up your second climber from below. The device is hung by the small hole, rope passed through device as usual but now with a large locking biner as a brake. This is not fastened to your harness, but directly to your equalized anchor, slightly overhead if possible. The knotted end leads down to the climber where the weight pulls the rope down against the other rope and tightens the brake biner into autolock mode. A prussik knot to your harness and onto the rope for a backup is nice if you tend to daydream alot at your belay stance.
Next shot shows the view of weight below and your belay hand, which is free to do other chores if needed. This is the main advantage of these autolocks. You have them on belay and can work sorting gear with free hand. And it's lighter than carrying a big Grigri with you. The difficulty with this autolock (same with a B-52, but worse in my opinion), is to release the rope after it has taken a fall or excess weight. You must be able to pull the locking brake carabiner UP, in actuality almost lifting the weight of the climber below, with one hand. Some climbers will set up an overhead pulley and short cord attached to make this easier. Either way, this action frees the rope lock-off as you can see in photo 3, and the rope will run free again. Be sure you have your brake hand on the rope before lifting up the brake, or your second may have an unexpected speedy descent. Careful management of the rope takes practice, so set it up on your home wall or from a tree to practice before you go out to the crags.
 024.thumbnail.jpg "Witches Hill in Athens, OH")
 202.thumbnail.jpg "Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve in Lee County, KY")
 196.thumbnail.jpg "Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve in Lee County, KY")
 134.thumbnail.jpg "Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve in Lee County, KY")
 004.thumbnail.jpg "McConnell's Mill State Park in Portersville, PA")
 049.thumbnail.jpg "Lower COAD Boulders in Athens, OH")
 266.thumbnail.jpg "Pebbles Boulder Area at the Trapps in The Gunks, Gardiner, NY")
 021.thumbnail.jpg "Witches Hill in Athens, OH")
 071.thumbnail.jpg "Lower COAD Boulders in Athens, OH")
Jimn72 says:
Thanks Woodchuck.
I for one appreciate tech knowledge quite a bit.
woodchuck07 says:
No problem. I hate reading the tiny print 'guidebook' that comes with most gear. Diagrams are often confusing, and you are often better off reading it from the French or German explanation instead. I can't figure out how they fold those instruction pages up so small with 200 folds to them.
Anykineclimb says:
the best way to lower a second on autobloc is to connect a sling to the belay biner on the device, the run it up to a biner higher on the anchor and then to your harness. you can then use your bodyweight to "lift" the device while keeping your brake hand on to maintain tension.
I hope this makes sense!
woodchuck07 says:
Yep. Either over a biner or a pulley works great. Forgot to mention the harness attachment part. I just hate to move around at belay stance accidentally and suddenly find my harness movement has pulled loose the autoblock. Oooopss..
climbingtrash says:
Good post WC. I use the ATC guide but it's the same thing. I won't bring up a second anymore with my belay on my harness. (unless certain situations require it.) Three months ago I did a 6 pitch route with two other climbers and we did every pitch with the leader bringing up both the second and third climber at the same time with the auto block belay system. It worked really well and saved us a lot of time. It was the first time I had done a route that way, and with the right trio it's fun and efficient method.
voltigeur says:
I always put a prusik on the brake side attached to my harness when lowering with a reverso. One thing I found is very effective in getting the locking biner pulled back is to girth hitch 2 slings together making a stirrup. You have much more strength using your leg to pull the biner than your arms. Your hands are free to manage the prusik so it doesn't lock or end up in the Reverso.
During a training seminar with Black Diamond the rep showed us that the ATC Guide has a small hole at the bottom of the device. It was designed to lower a second by girth hitching a runner through this hole and rotating the device easing the angle and releasing the tension in a more controled way. When bringing up 2 seconds the higher center ridge allows the locking biner (Should be one of the pear shaped biners with a flatter top) to "rock" locking up a second rope while lowering the other climber. (I haven't personally experimented with this.
woodchuck07 says:
Good points. I have a jumbo old Clog pear'biner used in the photo demo. Doesn't spin around and supports two ropes if needed.
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