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Scary climbs

Posted by katie on 3/3/2007 on katie's blog

Yesterday Seedy (aka Cedar Wright) and I went out to Indian Creek and braved the cold. And it was COLD. We had grand plans of getting on this offwidth that I have delusions of climbing, but that route was in the shade, so we opted for Cat Wall instead and found ourselves at the base of Burl Dog, a VERY thin 12+ climb that is mostly purple tcus. It's not even really a crack climb, but more facey with scary gear. We both toproped it twice, and then I (being delusional again) decided to try and lead it even though we weren't sure we even had enough gear. I have never been so scared in my life!!

There is one section (the crux section) where you have to put in a purple tcu and then punch it through a lieback that is too difficult to place anything. I would have liked to plug in two purples to make myself feel safer, but alas, I only had one, and I watched the tiny, tiny little lobes of the cam slide into the rock I got completely freaked out. I asked Cedar to finish the climb for me, he refused, so I was on my own. I was so scared (and cold) that my teeth were chattering, but up I headed, praying that I wouldn't fall until the cam was far below my feet and there was no possibility of going anywhere but up. When I finally got to the good jam I let out a yelp of excitement. While I didn't "send" the route on that try, it was nonethless pretty exhilirating to climb through the scary run-out.

p.s. love the "Dorkage" film, whoever made it -- at least, I liked the first few minutes. Hilarious!

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4 comments

Bob G. says:

<em>Bob G.</em>'s picture

sounds exciting! What off-width are you hoping to get on? I am a big fan of the wide ones and need to get down there and work on some more.

Duncus says:

Crazy story. It always funny how things seem like a good idea before you start them and then half way through scared to death, your wondering what made me think this was such a good idea.

Aussie boy says:

In Oz we have this choice crack roof - well it not quite offwidth but it's wide. It's called "passport to insanity". Legend has it that a local climbing legend put a note in a jar at the lip of the roof, saying he would pay some amount of money (like Aus $500 - probably a heap of money in the 80's) for the first man to free the route. As it turns out the first free ascent came from one Nyrie Dodd - female climber. Initially, first ascentionist declined to pay up because it was not a man. Eventually he paid up.

It's waiting for Katie in Oz!

The story

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/international/australia/the_grampians/1...

The photo

http://www.chockstone.org/Interviews/SCarter/passport.jpg

Bye

gonzobeer says:

<em>gonzobeer</em>'s picture

There you go Katie, I think it's in the stars for you to make it to kangaroo country. Better start asking Climbing now for some money :) Love ya!

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