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gear slings and harness racks

Posted by woodchuck07 on 4/12/2007 on woodchuck07's blog
Typical trad load of 'clean' hardware on lead.

As I view all the recent photos posted these days, I come to realize something. Few if any climbers carry a gear rack over their shoulders anymore. Not just the sport climbers are racked up with quick draws on their harnesses, but even longer crack leads show few pieces racked on the harness. Did I miss something along the way here? When did the gear rack go down in history as needless?

I've climbed roofs and tight squeeze chimneys with minimal gear on my harness, knowing a slinged rack will jam me up or fall off if I tumble over a roof move. And maybe the huge range of cams available today allow for lighter loads versus carrying 2 of each size of hex nut before. But I can't imagine loading up my ass with 20 or more pieces for a long pitch. What's the view here on gear slings anymore? Too trad' for most of todays leads, is it?

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15 comments

gonzobeer says:

<em>gonzobeer</em>'s picture

I think you kinda hit the nail there Woody, the huge range that cams have nowadays do help with having to carry 35 pounds of gear. Most people I think just cram their harnesses full of gear for single or 2 pitch routes. But I still use, and I think almost everyone except Micheal Reardon still carries slings for multi pitch routes.
I had my rack on a sling when it got ripped off. Made it easy to carry, obviously.
Don't worry Woody, the gear sling did not go way of the Dodo. But if you want to, you can go ahead and place the almighty sling in your climbing museum
Licentia Haud Vestigium

climbingwall says:

<em>climbingwall</em>'s picture

They even make some slings that are padded and double-sided for gearheads. They have loops that you can use to rack different sizes as well, but I still prefer the long runner looped over one shoulder.
Cheers!

gonzobeer says:

<em>gonzobeer</em>'s picture

This one looks comfy!

Licentia Haud Vestigium

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

oh yeah I realize they are still popular for big walls, aid routes and such. but when was the last time you saw a photo in R&I or Climbing, or here even, where the lead climber was sporting a gear sling with tons of hardware?
CW, I do have a padded one I made myself years ago, and an ergonomically curved 'modern' gear rack too. And I do carry longer ones around the neck for those moves that require it. What happened to those routes? Were they turned into bolted 'sporties' so long runners aren't required now?

gonzobeer says:

<em>gonzobeer</em>'s picture

This one was posted by CW
Licentia Haud Vestigium

climbingtrash says:

<em>climbingtrash</em>'s picture

Nicely done adding CW's pic GB...you learn quickly, I sense the force is strong in you! WC, I use a gear sling on multi-pitch routes. Slings too. It just depends on the route and what type of gear it requires.



woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

in my brilliance years ago, I took an old fleece lined denim vest and attached 7mm cords to each side, thus making the first lead gear vest. Racked it up on both sides in comfort, gear carefully and comfortably balanced across entire shoulders/back area. It was great except for being too hot to wear in 80 plus temps. Should have had a patent on it.

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

I'll wear one. Too bad i've never tried trad. BUt I will... someday... and i'll wear a sling and post a picture for ya!

climbingtrash says:

<em>climbingtrash</em>'s picture

Here you go WC...this is a pic of my partner Bill in his black diamond big wall chest sling. Racking up on it is pretty nice, we just swap it out at the belays.



woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

I like it. Looks like a combat vest for tactical teams or SWAT. Any beer can holders mounted into it?

climbingtrash says:

<em>climbingtrash</em>'s picture

No, Bill's one of those beer snobs I mentioned I climb with...he won't drink a beer that comes in a can.



woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

OK, OK!! I meant a 'bottle' holder, just to satisfy Bill. Well, actually I'm getting that way too except for practical use of cans, such as on big walls. Hey, even Clint Eastwood packed a 6 pak of cans for the climb in 'Eiger Sanction'.

climbingtrash says:

<em>climbingtrash</em>'s picture

God I should watch the Eiger S again, it's been years since I saw that show. He does a free climb in that film that's here in Zion. It's a single pitch 5.9 called the Cave route.



woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Weren't they the last to climb on the Totem Pole with permission from the locals? I had a poor VHS copy of a tape, then bought a tape, and finally a DVD of Eiger. It was one of those great pioneer movies about climbing when nobody knew what we were doing.

climbingtrash says:

<em>climbingtrash</em>'s picture

I think that's true about the Totem Pole...I could get us on that thing. I *wink-wink* know people. *nudge-nudge* The films they've made recently look like they still don't know what we are doing.



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