Well, this weekend was a great weekend of climbing with RR his family, CW and Socialbutterfly. Wanted to share a quick item with you all to give kudos to my friend, my mentor and our King this month. As most of you know RR introduced me and my daughter to climbing back in 2004, and has been instructing us and mentoring us in this wonderful sport of ours.
Anyhow my daughter was climbing Credibility Gap in Garden of the Gods-5.10 which she smoked, but on the way up she reached for a hold with her left hand, as she began to pull it broke the flake, letting loose a piece of rock that was huge, with a trail of smaller rocks plummeting down towards here belayer. Her muscle memory kicked in and she did not miss a beat, all while focusing on staying on the rock; she yelled with an instinctive “ROCK” with the quick response her belayer Climbing wall was able to get out of the way! The rock landed exactly where he was standing.
I accredit this reaction to her instructor, who over the years has instructed her in the ways of climbing and always being safe first and foremost, his attentiveness and attention to detail never ceases to amaze me, no matter how well we do or progress he is always there to ensure we do not get complicit (complicity kills), so thanks RockRats and know that she/we have listened! Your instruction and guidance is always wanted, and welcomed, Thank You.
Pludos
 024.thumbnail.jpg "Witches Hill in Athens, OH")
 202.thumbnail.jpg "Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve in Lee County, KY")
 196.thumbnail.jpg "Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve in Lee County, KY")
 134.thumbnail.jpg "Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve in Lee County, KY")
 004.thumbnail.jpg "McConnell's Mill State Park in Portersville, PA")
 049.thumbnail.jpg "Lower COAD Boulders in Athens, OH")
 266.thumbnail.jpg "Pebbles Boulder Area at the Trapps in The Gunks, Gardiner, NY")
 021.thumbnail.jpg "Witches Hill in Athens, OH")
 071.thumbnail.jpg "Lower COAD Boulders in Athens, OH")
Rockratz says:
Thank you, i must say she was definitely on top of her game, and litteraly saved CW, the rock she broke off was as big as his head. You and her have been great students over the last few years, and situations like this make it nice to say "Ahh young one, Now the student becomes the Master"...
Climb on.
"Need a Belay?"
http://www.coloradospringsrockratz.com
climbingwall says:
Man, do I now owe my life to RR? She was great about yelling, and it definately did save me some pain. However, I would not recommend running into Pludos to avoid rock. He doesn't give much either. :-0)
Cheers!
Anykineclimb says:
remember "pull down, not out" :D
laurendeau says:
I'am always interested in security. I made a difference between trad climbing and adventure climbing. Adventure climbing are more concern in prevention than in reaction.
As many paper talk about three kind of equilibrum of a solid. Three point of contact is use for move of 5.3 to 5.7; two point of contact for 5.9-5.10 and one point for 5.11 and more. With those information, we can analyse the style of the climber.
As people climb in sport and do trad after, they considered only one point of equilibrum. They pull on one hole at a time with a lot of weight, even if there is a hand or a foot on a good hole.
As people climb in adventure, they considered the safer equilibrum first and less tiring after. In an area with broken rock, they pratically never make long reach if they don't have a bomber protection and a place to jump. Even in know ground, they always analyses is position in fonction of the equilibrum of him as a solid
What cause the fall of the rock by the climber? Did they make a complex move to reach the hold or did he make a carefull choice of the hold and sound it before. In the later case, the climber didn't use the hold and was more secure. But, did he have the choice?
I said that, but I made a lot of mistake. The important for me is not what the other think of my performance, but what I can do to climb higher and safer
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