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First Trad Lead, The Staircase, Arch Rock - 11 Mile Canyon

Posted by ramseyrt on 9/28/2007 on ramseyrt's blog
Groups: Colorado Springs RockRatz
The Staircase, Arch Rock at 11 Mile Canyon Park

I met up with a new climbing parter yesterday, a friend of a friend, and headed out to 11 Mile Canyon to practice placing pro and trad leading.  We warmed up on a 5.5/5.6 on the Dome.  He showed me how to belay up and practiced setting up an anchor.  After that we went over to the staircase on Arch Rock.  I got to lead my first trad route.  I placed about 15 pieces of pro, stopping short of the staircase to set up an anchor.  I then belayed up my partner who led the staricase and setup an anchor to the left of the top step.  He belayed me up and I led the last pitch to the top.  Unfortunately, neither of us brought our approach shoes and the walk down was murderous in climbing shoes. After sorting out gear we got back to the car at sunset. The three pitch climb took us about five hours.  The weather and temperature was perfect for the climb.  I'll upload some pictures soon.  As it turns out, my parter is 66 years old.  I can only hope that I can be in as good shape when I'm that old!

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11 comments

ClimbingNarc says:

<em>ClimbingNarc</em>'s picture

Awesome! I just started leading as well and it has been a lot of fun.

Anykineclimb says:

<em>Anykineclimb</em>'s picture

way to go! congrats

ramseyrt says:

<em>ramseyrt</em>'s picture

On this climb we also brought one of my co-workers (Dave) and this was his first time on real rock; I'd taken him rappelling once and to the climbing gym once. He did great climbing between my partner (Stern) and myself. It's a hard job climbing three pitches starting out and he had to trail a rope up, clipping the pro out of the belay rope and into the trailing rope.

I figured I should explain why it took so long! Climbing with three takes a lot longer then with two!

Happy Friday everyone!

Rob Ramsey
kc8kpx
Fountain, CO

Anykineclimb says:

<em>Anykineclimb</em>'s picture

oh you climbed with Stern? Cool. hes a good guy

ramseyrt says:

<em>ramseyrt</em>'s picture

I met a guy named Tim Walen at Red Rock Canyon this summer. He moved down to New Mexico recently but introduced me to Stern over e-mail. Both of them are really safe climbers with a lot of experience. It's great to learn new tricks from the pros! : )

Rob Ramsey
kc8kpx
Fountain, CO

ff113 says:

<em>ff113</em>'s picture

Rock on best 5.5 Anywhere, well i am partial to this one

ped says:

<em>ped</em>'s picture

Congrats on your first lead! It's a great route to be sure.

climbingbum says:

<em>climbingbum</em>'s picture

Congrats on your first trad lead! i still have yet to learn how to lead.

Anonymous says:

Way to go!! You ROCK!!!

Rockratz says:

<em>Rockratz</em>'s picture

Nice, the staircase was my first trad as well.

"Need a Belay?"

ramseyrt says:

<em>ramseyrt</em>'s picture

Hello Cliff,

I haven't heard from you in a while.  Are we still on for this weekend at Shelf Road?  I sent an e-mail to your wolfpow account but haven't heard back.

Thanks! 

Rob Ramsey kc8kpx Fountain, CO

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