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Hello,
I’d like to get some suggestions on methods and equipment for setting up equalized anchors. I’ve been using two slings connected with locking carabineers, off of two bolts, as my setup for top-roping. I realize that it’s not an ideal configuration as the fall line is rarely directly below the anchors. I’ve considered using just one sling between two anchor points, with a twist in the middle, but the slings aren’t long enough to provide for a satisfactorily low angle; which places %100 load on each bolt anyway. I read an article http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=18&type=gearguy that states that cordalettes aren’t typically equalized either.
Thanks in advance,
Rob
Rockratz says:
For sport routes i have actually made anchors for top roping. Its nothing more than two quick draws with lockers on each end. The longer quick draws from petzl. For a muti pich or trad route i use either coordlett equilized or an Equlizer from metoluious. Lastly for a everyday toprope you cant go wrong with 1/2 tubular nylon for an anchor system. You could use runners but i would much rather trust something i tied rather than something sewn but both work well. Again this is just my Opinion..
RockRatz
"Need a Belay?"
Dr. Goodwack says:
Rob, first, my advice is avoid the "sliding X" (the twist you spoke of) when anchoring to 2 modern bolts. The possibility of extension, and more importantly the lack of redundancy, are big no-no's. The sliding X is more suited to equalizing poor anchors, and is considered to be for experts only. Go with what The Rockrat posted above (remember to set your carabiners with the gates opposed), unless your webbing is contacting the rock somewhere. In that case, I would suggest some 1" webbing, or even some beefy static rope, but that all depends on your particular scenario. Posting some photos of your rigging would be very helpful! Second, because every route, rigging scenario, etc. is different, there are too many variables (distance between the bolts, elevation of bolts, rock protrusions, rope feed, rope drag, etc.) to account for in an internet forum, so take what you read here as guidelines and feedback, and try to get someone at your crag to check/critique your rigging. Be safe, and Rock On!
climbingtrash says:
I would suggest you buy this book...
It's the Bible of climbing anchors. I reference it all the time. :)
ramseyrt says:
Hello,
Thanks for the feedback on the book. I actually ordered that book over the weekend but it hasn't arrived yet.
Rob Ramsey kc8kpx Fountain, CO
Anykineclimb says:
For "sport" anchors I have two sets of achors that I use. one set is the long Petzl draws like RR mentioned; although mine have nonlocking biner and of course I oppose the biners!
The other set are "trad draws" (tripled shoulder length slings) with lockers. I like these because they're a little more versatile as I can adjust the length based on where the bolts are placed.
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