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Posted by badash on 6/11/2007 on badash's blog
Groups: Climb Nashville

HOLY COWWWW – what a CRAZY weekend!

If you don’t care about the whole story, then only read the last few paragraphs…. I talk about qualifers in the first part --- I would suggest reading the whole thing though…

Divisionals was crazier than I thought it would be. I was SUPER nervous, considering this was the last chance to make it to nationals. This is NOT like bouldering. NO, its MUCH, MUCH harder to make it to nationals (in my age division) – and I learned that this weekend.

So I was realllllllly nervous the week before, right? Well Kyle, my home gym route setter, was going to set for it and it took a lot of stress off of me considering I am used to his “style.” Then the day before I found out that they cancelled on him, and the stress and nervousness came to me and it didn’t go away the whole weekend. I was so freakin nervous! I have NEVER been nervous for ANY other comp besides this one. I was freaking out.

Anyways, then qualifiers came. Talk about the worst climbing day of my LIFE! I ate too much the night before which made me not hungry in the morning. (not to mention, I had to wake up at 6 nashville time after going to bed REALLY late…) So I crammed food into me and I felt so sick and heavy. I was a nervous wreck in isolation and I wasn’t any better when I got out to climb. I was the last person to go, so EVERYONE was watching me.

The first qualifers route was the sketchiest thing ever. IT SUCKED. (sorry, routesetters-that-arent-kyle-musgrove!) I got to the first clip and freakin BACKCLIPPED IT. Then I turned to my belayer at a sketchy stance and asked him if I had to re-clip, which TOTALLY got me out of the zone. Then there was this stupid awkward move and then I was on these bad holds that they expected us to clip off of…. and I knew that if I tried to clip then I would deck, so I decided to just fall. One clip. A few moves. And I fell. BUMMER!

The second route wasn’t any better. It was a sketch fest indeed. Some people didn’t even get the first clip, and I am not surprised….. did I mention that it was really high? yeah. The first clip was sketchy and high. HOW safe, right!? (sorry, I just hated the routes…a lot!) SO I fell trying to find a clip stance for the 2nd bolt. Yeah um… LAME!

I waited and waited until the results were posted. I automatically made it to finals. I was in 6th place – and they take the top 6 people for nationals. I knew that if I wanted to make it, I would really have to step up and get PSYCHED!

Once I get determined, there’s nothing that will stop me. I wasn’t going to let stupid routes get in the way of me going to nationals. I was going to go. No doubt.

The big day came. The day that counts. Finals. I was psyched. The qualifier round didn’t matter. This mattered. This day would determine if I would make it. I was going for it.

My finals route was in the cave area. (WOOHOO!) Thank you!!!! Finally!!!! (I’ve been climbing on roofs a lot at Obed, so I knew I was ready!) SO it was finally a route that I felt confident in. They finally made a non-sketchy route. It was finals. I was ready.

Even though deep inside I thought that I wasn’t going to do good, I covered the thoughts with positive things: I used creative visualization to see me finishing the route and making it to nationals. I breathed deep, drank water, and relaxed. Adrian, the coach for Adrenaline, helped me in isolation (like usual) and I felt really confident.

After a few people it was my turn. There was a bouldery move to a shelf that was kind of sloper-ish… it was easy for me, but I guess it wasn’t easy for a lot of the other girls… (most people got screwed up with their feet.) Anyways, I flowed. I kept reminding myself about nationals when I was on the route, and it kept me moving. I heard everyone cheering me on, and I ended up getting the farthest out of everyone.

I watched the rest of my category and a lot of them made mistakes in the beginning. I felt bad…

I had to wait until 5 that night to confirm how I did.

And.

I did good.

I learned that the first day doesn’t count. I really made a lot of changes and learned a lot about competitive sport climbing… I learned that I can totally change my attitude when it comes to finals, and that being relaxed and not nervous really helps. I learned to keep moving no matter what, because every movement counts. I learned to have FUN when I climb, and not to worry.

I placed first. Divisional champ. I went from worrying about if I was even going to make it to nationals to bringing home the gold. I’m pretty damn psyched! I achieved my goal. Next goal: have fun at nationals. I’m already there. I already made it. (it was harder than I thought it would be) WOOOHOOOOOOOOOO!

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23 comments

gonzobeer says:

<em>gonzobeer</em>'s picture

Hell yeah Ash!!!! Way to go girl. You rock! Glad you had a good reason to leave Nashvegas when I was there :p
Licentia Haud Vestigium

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

Thanks. Oh yeah, how was it here!?

gonzobeer says:

<em>gonzobeer</em>'s picture

Fine. I didn't get to climb anything. Did cook up some good food with Ollie. And beer. Then a nice 3 hour drive back to da Ville.
Licentia Haud Vestigium

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

OUR girl. The adrenaline junky Ash' does it. Our idol moves on to the nationals. I hope you will get lots of press in the mags now too. CT, CW, GB, Bex, all did a wonderful job of 'coaching' our girl to the top. Hahahahah!!! we are worthless....it's a big Thanks again to Katie today for her support and technical advice when blogs are needed. I can't wait to see the tie dye colored life size poster that they hang at C-Nash' "HOME of the Divisional Climbing Champion" Yeeeessss!!!

Rockratz says:

<em>Rockratz</em>'s picture

WoW Ash , Grats on going to nationals, keep us updated.

captain static says:

<em>captain static</em>'s picture

I was involved in the USA Climbing Midwest Youth Divisional comp this weekend held at RockQuest in Cincinnati as a route judge. I was judging on the second qualifier route. The first girl out of iso was crying as she sat down in her chair in front of the first qualifier. She pulled it together and flashed both qualifiers. In fact all female competitors flashed both qualifying routes so the second qualifier had to be adjusted for the male competitors. It is amazing how strong and good these young climbers are. The second qualifier for the older youth competitors was supposed to be at least 5.12c.
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badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

haha woody - yeah right. (I WISH!) anyways, i'll post about nationals for sure.

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Well they should honor you in some way. It's done everywhere. Champs who train at golf courses, skiers who skied at local ski areas, they all take credit for being 'home' of the champion. At least this one would be true, as much as you post about them and tell us how much you love it there.

Human Crashpad says:

<em>Human Crashpad</em>'s picture

Eek, I'm behind the ages. Congrats Ash! That's truly an inspirational sort of mind you have in that head. Flew back last night and I felt anything but psyched...the comp was actually a little on the slow side and the routes were set way differently from yours. (Our qualif was .10a. Everyone in our catagory was a little insulted, and not just our age group.)

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

Are you kidding me? Wow.... thats crazy! Why so easy? They made the mistake of making Male Youth C's route a 10d and they had like 8 people tie... and then 4 people tie at finals... i hate when they underestimate climbers! It just sucks for them -- to have to rush and make super finals, you know?!

climbingwall says:

<em>climbingwall</em>'s picture

Congrats BA!!!!Keep your head straight, and positive for NATS!!!We're all rooting for you and HC.
Cheers!

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

thanks!

Bex says:

<em>Bex</em>'s picture

Awesome Ash I knew you would do it, can't wait to hear about the Nationals. Which you will toatally kick butt at in True Ash style. You Rock Ash.

Spudz says:

<em>Spudz</em>'s picture

good job Ash did you win anything?

Hokker says:

<em>Hokker</em>'s picture

Great job Ash! You will smoke them all at Nationals.

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

Thanks Spudz - oh, and I won a medal and PRIDE. And the opportunity to go to nationals... Thanks Hokker. I appreciate the positive thinking! =)

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Spudz says:

<em>Spudz</em>'s picture

yeah Ash now you have a lot of bragging rights

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

i do? cool! BUT nahhhhhhh i wont use them! =)

Spudz says:

<em>Spudz</em>'s picture

no! use them rub it in peoples faces
haha just playen

Vegas says:

<em>Vegas</em>'s picture

Congrats on winning Divisionals and good luck at Nationals! You know you'll have the whole yourclimbing.com posse cheering for you! Let us know how it goes, ya?

And can I get an autographed pic of you at the comp with your cool tie-dye shirt? So when you become a world famous climber like Katie Brown, I can show all my homies and tell them: "I knew BadAsh waaaaaaaay before she was on the front cover of all these climbing magazines and starring in her own climbing video........."

Human Crashpad says:

<em>Human Crashpad</em>'s picture

I'm going to look for this tye-dye shirt in Michigan so I can high-five you in person. MY homies will be more impressed than your homies, Vegas. Haha, kidding...

But no, seriously...

badash says:

<em>badash</em>'s picture

Yeah Crash - i'll definitely have a tyedye shirt on so just come and say hi. We will be in the same isolation.

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