Colorado Springs Red Rocks Open Space

For those new Rock Rats and future Rock Rats that have never been caught up with history of Red Rocks Open Space in Colorado Springs.

Red Rock Open Space
By Deb Acord, Out There

Local climbers find themselves between a rock and a hand drill as they ready newest open space

Earlier this fall, hundreds of volunteers moved dirt and rocks to build trails in Red Rock Canyon Open Space. Recently, a smaller team worked in a more solitary fashion, building trails of a different sort: vertical routes up the walls of sandstone that give this place its name. Red Rock Canyon is the newest open space in the Colorado Springs park system. Purchased in December by the city for almost $15 million, it is scheduled to open this fall. When it does, area climbers are in for a surprise, says Stewart Green.

A veteran Colorado Springs climber who is a prolific author of climbing, hiking and travel guides, Green participated in the series of meetings to form the master plan for Red Rock Canyon. The finished plan includes climbing areas of sandstone from the same formations as nearby Garden of the Gods.

Climbers have been eager to gain access to the canyon, but Green says even the most experienced will be surprised by what they find.

"This is some of the best climbing in the area," he says. "The quality of the rock and the number of routes will make it very popular. It rivals Garden of the Gods, especially on the moderate routes."

For several weeks, Green and climbers Bob Hostetler, who also represented climbers at the meetings; Brian Shelton, who operates a climbing guide business; and Ric Geiman, a parks agency analyst, have been exploring the pink and orange sandstone walls and cliffs of Red Rock Canyon. The trio, with a few other local climbers, have been cleaning the rock face, setting routes, drilling and bolting routes, and naming them.

When it opens, the almost 800-acre open space will offer hiking and equestrian trails, a free-ride mountain bike area and two off-leash dog trails, as well as technical climbing on the sandstone walls. Geiman, who has climbed for 30 years, says the opportunity for climbers is "virtually unprecedented."

"Going into a place like this is a great opportunity for climbers. Because it was privately owned for so long, there really hasn't been any activity there."

Red Rock will surprise firsttime visitors. Just off busy U.S. Highway 24 at the west end of town, the open space is an oasis of green meadow and jewel-tone sandstone. Ponderosa pines and scrub oaks share the canyon with yucca. Prickly pear cactus grows in bumpy rock formations. Slender junipers, looking like someone has trimmed them, decorate the base of the rock formations. The canyon walls absorb sound and shield the open space from reminders of nearby civilization.

When the park is finished, it will have 17 miles of trails, some built by Volunteers for Outdoor Colorado, and dozens of climbing routes. The routes are the reason Green, Hostetler and Shelton visited the canyon one recent Friday morning.

While a parks crew bulldozed a road near the entrance, Green belayed Shelton, who climbed a wall they've named The Whale. Shelton carried standard climbing gear, but his hardware-laden harness also held an assortment of bolts, a whisk broom and an electric drill that Green rigged to a car battery.

The climbers worked slowly, carefully, exploring possible routes from the bottom up, placing bolts by drilling into the rock and painting the metal pieces so they blend into the sandstone.

Establishing routes beforehand is the most environmentally sound way to ready the rock for climbers, Green says. "If we have all the routes up before anyone gets here, it will control the climbing."

In contrast, the Garden of the Gods has established routes that have been placed through the years by random climbers. Some still are good; others rely on old bolts or take climbers over areas where the rock is unstable.

The Garden has been climbed for almost 100 years, Geiman says. Many of the routes were created by Albert Ellingwood, a Colorado College professor and famed climber.

"He would drill a hole and hammer in a piton," Geiman says. "Since that time, some of those pitons have failed. Climbing equipment has evolved, and climbing technique and ability have evolved. It's allowed people to climb more difficult routes, so there was a slow and steady progression of routes."

The quality of rock is the limiting factor in the Garden, Geiman says. "If it's solid enough to climb, it probably already has a route on it."

Geiman says the fact that a quarry was operated in Red Rock is evidence of the quality of the rock. "It was undoubtedly the best in the region."

The Garden is a world-class climbing arena for experts, with perhaps 10 percent moderate routes, compared with about 40 percent moderate at Red Rock. The new open space also features many easier routes that will be perfect for beginners and climbing classes.

The climbers have been creative in naming the slabs, walls and climbing routes in Red Rock. Routes are established on Westbay Wall, named for local climber Billy Westbay, who died from cancer; West Canyon Wall; Quarry Wall, directly below the sandstone that was cut in the quarry more than 100 years ago; The Whale, a well-named hump formation; Solar Slab, a long slab just below The Whale; and Wiggins Wall, named for another famous local climber, the late Earl Wiggins.

The climbers are setting up the park the right way, says Chris Leiber, administrator and trails coordinator of Trails, Open Space and Parks for the city.

"We are delighted. It's being done in a way that respects the natural resource values. It's all about trying to find that balance."

Some details:
- The canyon will feature three main climbing areas, on Westbay Wall, Ripple Wall, West Canyon Wall, The Whale, Quarry Wall, Solar Slab, Wiggins Wall and Coyote Wall.
- Bouldering will be allowed, using the same rules as at the Garden of the Gods - not more than 10 feet off the ground.
- Climbers will have to register at Garden of the Gods Visitor Center.
- Climbers must use established routes.
- Scrambling won't be allowed.
- For now, there are five miles of trails and roads that can be hiked. Eventually, there will be 17 miles of trails.

Climbing in Red Rock Canyon

A sampling of routes at Red Rock Canyon, described by Stewart Green in an upcoming climbing guide:

- Whale Rider: "Superb climbing. Edge up an immaculate slab to a stance. Finish up the whitish headwall above. ."
- Solar Flare: "On the far left side of Solar Slab, lay back a fingertip crack up an obvious right-facing, arching corner until it's possible to exit. Climb directly above the arch to anchors in a shallow scoop. Possible 11a."
- Mo' Verde: "A great long pitch up the right side of the great face. Begin in the scoop above the upper slabs. Climb up right along a diagonal line of holds then directly up the face to the base of a right-angling corner. Finish up the corner to a belay ledge. +."
- Coyote Verde: "A great moderate up the left side of the south slab. Start on the apron just right of the groove. Smear and edge past bolts up the left side of the face to summit anchors. 5.8."
- Billy's Ghost Dance: "This excellent pitch climbs directly up the longest slab in the middle of the face. Climb up and left to the smooth crux slab. Finish up edges and smears to anchors just below the cliff summit. Watch for some loose rock up high. 5.7."

About climbing: Mountain travel is described in a uni versal system:
Class 1: Trail hiking.
Class 2: Hiking over rough ground such as scree or talus; may require use of hands for stability.
Class 3: Scrambling that requires the use of hands and careful foot placement.
Class 4: Scrambling over steep and exposed terrain; a rope may be used for safety on exposed areas.
Class 5: Technical climbing where terrain is steep and exposed; requires ropes, protection hardware and related techniques.

- In a climbing area such as Red Rock, 5.0 is the easiest technical climbing and 5.11 the hardest. When there are too few ascents for a consensus or the estimated rating is unclear, a plus or minus may be used. Usually, routes are rated according to their most difficult move.

SOURCE: "Rock Climbing Colorado" by Stewart M. Green

The master plan for the Red Rock Canyon Open Space includes 17 miles of trails, three areas for rock climbing, two off-leash dog trails, a free-ride mountain bike area, equestrian trails and picnic areas. The park is expected to open this fall.