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Castle Rock Bouldering

Posted by JamesLucas on 11/26/2007 on JamesLucas's blog

The wind catches the crash pad slowing my single-speed bike as I barrel down the hill from campus. I shift the pad and pedal faster. My alarm buzzed half an hour ago, I’d smashed the damn thing and bolted out of bed when I saw that it was almost 8. Five minutes down the hill, I’m banging on the door to Anson’s van, trying to get his ass up. I shove him into the driver’s seat. He can wake up on the way.
Tree at Castle Rock The forty-five minute drive to Castle Rock allows for sessions before, after, and between classes at UCSC. We take advantage of any opportunity to slap the smooth sandstone of Castle Rock.
Johnathon on Duct Tape (V5). This classic Castle Rock Problem involves slapping and controlling heinous slopers for just three moves before finishing on easier climbing.
John Schmid finishing the Garage Door (v1). Atop the crest of the Santa Cruz mountains rests 3600 acres of forest; madrones, redwoods, and Douglas-firs surround honeycombs of sandstone. These geological oddities are known as tafoni, Italian for “cavern” and are hypothesized to be the result of salt weathering. The majority of the climbing avoids these caves instead hitting the small clusters of brown rock. Though there a number of roped routes in the park, the best climbing there is the bouldering.

Anson on the V3 Parking Lot Arete.



Bryan Sweeney finishing off the Parking Lot Traverse on the Tree Route. The V7 traverse begins just right of the arete and follows the rock uphill to this V4.
Johnathon on the Waimea Arete on Castle Rock proper. The crux of this V6 highball is pulling over and mantling on the slopers. Most Castle Rock problems finish on bulges. Graceful Castle technicians highstep or press the problems out with their huge triceps. The rest of us flop to the summit like beach whales. Across the street from Castle rock lays Indian rock, which features some lead routes and a sprinkling of boulders. To the right of this v3 is the Sharma Arete a sick problem with a dicey landing. By two I’m back on campus, studying for an economics midterm, I stare down at my forearms. Large raspberries stain the underside of my arm where the rock scrapped off my skin from slapping the sloping holds and bulges. I love the Castle Rock kisses.

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4 comments

woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Just how many Castle Rocks' are there anyway in the US? Seems most are also climbing areas or near one. I think Colorado when I hear Castle Rock.

andychasteen says:

<em>andychasteen</em>'s picture

Nicely done. Looks like some cool lines out there....

climbingtrash says:

<em>climbingtrash</em>'s picture

Great post James, looks like a good time.



woodchuck07 says:

<em>woodchuck07</em>'s picture

Looks bigger than the castle rock boulders in Wisconsin, thats for sure. Great photos.

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