I was recently contacted by a climber living in the small (pop. 35,000) Norwegian city of Sandefjord. In the late 90's I was lucky enough to live in Sandefjord and open lots and lots of routes with a few other climbers in the area - most of them short and most of them right in the city. Maybe the first hundred were done from the ground up opening and cleaning on lead. Then we pitched in, bought a drill, and opened a ton of sport routes between the cracks.
This climber wanted to know if he could have permission to use our old online guide to make a printed guide of the area. He also mentioned that since we left - most of the climbers were foreigners - almost nobody climbs outdoors anymore. To the point that many of the great lines have become re-vegetated.
Of course I told him to use whatever old info he could get his hands on. In addition, and herein lies the moral dilemma, I told him to take the 3 most urban, accessible cliffs and bolt any lines where I had done the first ascent regardless of if they were originally done on natural pro.
Here's my reasoning:
- It's worth bolting some crack lines to get people out of the gym and back onto the rock.
- It's not defacing nature because it's an urban setting. Some routes you can belay from the car.
- Anyone who wants to climb trad can ignore the bolts.
- Though we had fun opening the routes in our own style, I don't really care how anyone else climbs them.
Sure there are some negative aspects to retro-bolting, but in this particular instance I consider the positives to outweigh them.
So.........Bad Advice?
(remnants of our old online guide can be found here: http://www.saveklatring.no/save_dev/frontend/SaVe/Map.html)







climbingtrash says:
As a trad climber and sport climber I'd say leave the cracks unbolted if there are plenty of sport climbs around. That way if any of the areas climbers want to give trad climbing a go, there are some lines they could pioneer. It's really up to the community and the FA, IMO. :)

Per says:
Well, bolting some of those routes is still better than what the guy from the 'Turistforeningen' did when he wasn't able to get up the highest route in Ormestadvika.... At the top slab he couldn't do, he simply drilled three pockets to fit his fat fingers....
Drill away, just leave 'Mini-Maxi' alone... That was my favorite first ascent that I actually did without being hauled up by you... Cool route, with tiny cracks for micro-nuts in the first half, and a massive crack for a 4 inch friend on top.
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