Posted by CrazyGil on 2/27/2007 on CrazyGil's blog
Here is my workout schedule for the Adult Team at SportRock - Alexandria, for one month.
Coach: Claudiu Vidulescu (http://www.evolutionclimbing.org)
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First week: One day: 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.11 5.10 5.10 5.9 (allow 5-10 minutes breaks in between climbs depending on how hard was your previous climb ) Two days: 2x 2x 3x 4x 5x 3x 2x 2x 2x V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V3 V1 V0 (allow 1-5 minutes breaks in between climbs depending on how hard was your previous climb ) One day: Onsighting routes and boulder problems from 5.10+ and V3 and working on an existent project or make up a circuit ( 25-30 moves ) that is very close to your limit. The project or circuit needs to have a big variety of holds with moves that are your weaknesses. In order for this exercise to be successful you need to be creative and use your imagination.Second week: One day: 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.10 5.9 (allow 5-10 minutes breaks in between climbs depending on how hard was your previous climb ) Two days: 3x 3x 3x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x V0 V1 V2 V3 V3 V4 V4 V3 V3 V2 V1 (allow 1-5 minutes breaks in between climbs depending on how hard was your previous climb ) One day: Onsighting routes and boulder problems from 5.10+ and V3 and working on an existent project or make up a circuit ( 25-30 moves ) that is very close to your limit. The project or circuit needs to have a big variety of holds with moves that are your weaknesses. In order for this exercise to be successful you need to be creative and use your imagination.Third week: One day: 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 5.8 5.9 5.9 5.9 5.10 5.10 5.10 5.10 5.10 5.9 5.8 (allow 5-10 minutes breaks in between climbs depending on how hard was your previous climb ) Two days: 3x 3x 3x 3x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V4 V3 V3 V2 V2 V1 (allow 1-5 minutes breaks in between climbs depending on how hard was your previous climb ) One day: Onsighting routes and boulder problems from 5.10+ and V3 and working on an existent project or make up a circuit ( 25-30 moves ) that is very close to your limit. The project or circuit needs to have a big variety of holds with moves that are your weaknesses. In order for this exercise to be successful you need to be creative and use your imagination.Fourth week for 3 days combined with running: Power training: A. 20 pull - ups for each grip (front, back and wide grip) B. 30 push - ups for each grip (front, side and wide) C. 20 lock offs for every position (45, 90 and up) for 5 seconds each. First session with legs straight, second with knees bend at 90 and third with L shaped body D. Using the rubber cords stand on one knee, choose a load (distance from where the rubber cord is anchored) that will allow you to do more repetitions and execute 20 for each arm. Using the same equipment, execute 20 repetitions for crosses standing up from right to left and then switch. E. Campus board for static, dynamic and semi dynamic movement with one or both arms at the same time. 5 repetitions for each exercise. Smaller holds slower and bigger holds faster movement, do as many as you can without dropping the speed, if you get tired you'll do it slower so you have to stop and do something different. You should spend about 10-15 minutes on the campus board every power training session. F. Finger board training for lock off and hanging with and without elastic bands (different holds for different amount of time in the pyramid system) do not exceed 5 second on each lock off or hang straight arm. G. Hanging from the pull up bar bring your knees up to your chest and kick side ways left and right, keep your legs parallel to the ground and maintain that position for at least 1 second. 10 repetitions on each side.
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